We’re still in Juneau for today’s article. And, once again, photos for this week’s Juneau experience were taken either during Voyage 1 (26 September 2021) or Voyage 2 (4 October 2021). The easy way to tell which day is which is to look at the sky. Voyage 1 we encountered clouds and intermittent drizzle, while Voyage 2 gave us bright, sunny skies. The image above was taken shortly after 2:00 p.m. on the 26th, shortly after our late arrival into Juneau. Here’s Ovation later that afternoon, as we headed back aboard to prepare for dinner:
Ovation of the Seas later that afternoond
After disembarking I spent a little time on the dock composing some fun waterside photos of the colorful buildings dotting the Juneau landscape:
Colorful Juneau
As far as 4 October being the sunnier of our two visits during the fall of this year, there was one exception. As I mentioned on Monday, we did encounter a bit of fog during our morning sail through Stephens Passage heading into Juneau. But the fog gave a nice contrast to the show topped mountains along the way:
Transiting Stephens Passage — morning of 4 October 2021
A couple of sights I didn’t show you on Monday, starting with this dedication to the Filipino community of Juneau. It’s a bust of Dr. José Rizal, a hero of the Philippine Revolution against Spanish colonial control who was executed by firing squad in 1896 at the young age of 35:
Honoring Juneau’s Filipino community with a bust dedicated to Dr. José Rizal
Now for a photo gallery and slide show of some of the sights and colors along South Franklin Street:
Last week I ran a three-part series on Cruising in the Age of Covid-19. That review detailed onboard experiences on recent back-to-back voyages aboard Royal Caribbean‘s huge ship Ovation of the Seas. Beginning today I will present to you the sights we encountered on these voyages beginning with Juneau, the capital of Alaska.
Ovation of the Seas in Juneau — 26 September 2021
On Voyage 1 we arrived in port on 26 September in the afternoon. It was our first port of call on this voyage. As our itinerary for Voyage 2 was altered, substituting Ketchikan for Sitka because of weather, Juneau became our second port. That arrival was early morning on 4 October. The photos you’ll see this week are selection from both visits at eight days apart.
Dockside in Juneau — 26 September 2021
Our first visit to Juneau the weather was not exactly cooperative. The skies were cloudy, and we had intermittent light sprinkles throughout our stay. Nothing uncomfortable, mind you. We didn’t even need to break out the umbrellas, although Ursula briefly donned a rain poncho.
Juneau Public Library alongside the cruise pier
Juneau is an interesting town, and it’s particularly fun to walk the many shops along South Franklin Street. Here you’ll find everything from high-end jewelry, to expensive furs, to a store specializing in Russian items (including some cool Soviet-era hats), to bars, and, of course, Tracy’s King Crab Shack, which was unfortunately closed for the season. The image below of Tracy’s was taken on the sunnier of the two days we visited Juneau — 4 October — with an earlier morning arrival.
Tracy’s King Crab Shack
Not far from Tracy’s, also on South Franklin, is the Mount Roberts Tramway. I’ve included a photo of it, also taken on 4 October. For an article on what that’s like, see my article from an earlier visit: Mount Roberts Tramway.
Mount Roberts Tramway, Juneau
One of these day’s I really am going to have to step inside those rustic swinging doors leading into the historic Red Dog Saloon. This place has been beckoning to me for decades now, as it calls out to me every time we visit Juneau:
Red Dog Saloon
So, what else is on South Franklin? Well, as you leave the cruise ship, below is the view to the right (south). That’s the direction for Tracy’s, the tramway, and some of the more seasonal shops:
Looking south along South Franklin Street
Heading north on South Franklin, which means departing the cruise ship dock and hanging a left past the Red Dog, brings you to an area that caters a bit more to locals. So here is where you’ll find most of the dockside year-round shopping. That’s not to say you’re out of the touristy shop area, as there are still plenty of jewelry and kitschy shops here as well:
Heading north on South Franklin
Head up that way for bars and restaurants more geared to the locals. Indeed, this charming crepe-centric place looked as if it might be fun to sample, and right next to it was a coffee and s’mores shop:
Crepe Escape and Captain’s S’Mores and Brew
As I mentioned earlier in today’s article, our 4 October arrival afforded us better weather. And the morning sunlight gave us some great approach views heading into Stephens Passage. The lead picture in today’s article was taken as we sailed toward Juneau that morning. But this next photo was even more striking, as we approached a dense fogbank heading into port:
Stephens Passage fogbank heading into Juneau — 4 October 2021
On Wednesday we looked at the various Covid-19 health protocol contradictions on the dining venues (and the elevators) aboard Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas. Today we’ll take a look at how those protocols affected the overall cruise experience in other venues, and I’ll start today with the Royal Theater, in which the nightly entertainment performed. Now, one might think with a ship running below 50% capacity (in the case of Voyage 1, well below), Royal Caribbean might have been tempted to skimp on their comedians, singers, and production shows. They most assuredly did not. The entertainment was what one has come to expect from a major cruise line — exceptional.
Ovation‘s North Star observation platform — protocol limited to four
Seating in the Royal Theater is on two levels. The lower main seating area allowed unmasking and was not socially distanced, although couples/groups were requested to leave two seats empty between them. Unvaccinated children and their accompanying guardians were restricted to the upper theater seating area, and masks were required for them throughout the show. For those shows expecting near capacity crowds, reservations were highly recommended.
“Virtual Balcony” cabin…
… with its 80-inch LCD “Virtual Balcony”
As with Sorrento’s pizzeria, Windjammer buffet, and other non-main dining room venues, bar tables were placarded as unavailable to facilitate social distancing. This became a factor for Ursula and me mostly during the slightly more crowded Voyage 2. But we also ran up against this during the less crowded Voyage 1 at our favorite, Schooner Bar. There were times we could not get a comfortable table, as we both get uncomfortable sitting at tall tables on chairs where our feet dangle rather than touch the floor. After a while it starts to get to you in the back of the legs and in the hips. Whoever came up with this bright invention needs to be made to sit like that for six hours, straight twice a day, for a solid week so as to get a clue. And just to show how arbitrary and at times silly the protocols got, that El Paso couple we were seated next to in Silk? They invited us to sit with them at their table in Schooners when no others were available, but the wait staff would not allow it.
Getting into Schooner Bar could be a challenge, even during Voyage 1
So, social distancing strictly enforced in the bars and some dining venues. But not in… the casino! We found that exception rather interesting. But, then, cruise lines are notorious at making exceptions for revenue-raking casinos, including smoking areas. Sorry, but a designated smoking area in a large room is to me like the designated peeing area in a swimming pool — the concept of segregating either is pretty much meaningless. You see, there’s this thing called diffusion…. but I digress.
Casino Royale — no, really; that’s its name
Then we get back to the bars, which once again have every other table placarded as unavailable. Below are Boleros, a bar and entertainment venue, and Music Hall and Music Hall bar:
Boleros
Music Hall — lower area
Music Hall — upper level bar
Bottom line on all this: The Covid-19 health protocols were at times a hinderance, and at times amusing in their unequal application. Seldom were they an inconvenience (but then there’s those elevator trolls I discussed on Wednesday) until Voyage 2. Whereas Ovation easily handled protocols at 1,600 passengers, things began to unravel at 2,300. I can only extrapolate that they worsened the next week when the capacity grew to 3,000, but I don’t know that for certain as we were not there. All things considered, I’m glad we went on both Voyage 1 and the slightly more crowded (700 more) Voyage 2. But I’d be really hesitant at seeing what would be in store for a ship at full capacity with these protocols in place. From my experience the elevators would be rendered useless; dining outside the main dining rooms probably impossible without long waits, and the bars nothing more than a venue into which to peer at those lucky souls who found a table. Fortunately, I don’t see full capacity becoming a serious problem for the time being, but at some point cruise lines are going to have to trust that masking and vaccinations will overcome the need to mandate social distancing requirements. And the only way I see that happening is to quit accommodating those who are unvaccinated, which in this case means families with children below vaccination ages.
Beginning next week I’ll present the destinations we hit on these back-to-back voyages. But for now here are a few more photos of Ovation of the Seas:
Izumi Sushi Bar
Wonderland Restaurant (extra cost)
Riding the North Star in Endicott Arm/Dawes Glacier
Decisions — Murder in Paradise
The Globe — Murder in Luxury
R. Doug Wicker — Author 