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Southern Caribbean Cruising — Grenadines; Bequia


Port Elizabeth, Bequia, Grenadines

We left Port Elizabeth behind, but we would be back later that day after a beachside lunch. But for now we had places to go and things to do, so we headed west along the Bequia coastline. Along the way we passed some pretty impressive yachts:

Not quite Russian oligarch standards, but…

Our next sight was quite unique. It’s called Moonhole, and it has a fun history. It’s a 30-acre/12-ha site upon which a private rental community was founded in the 1960s. Several of the buildings along the shoreline were ravaged by a hurricane and remain abandoned. Currently Moonhole contains eleven privately owned homes and several rentals that go for a good chunk of change.

If you are curious as to how this site acquired the Moonhole moniker, the answer lies in the image below. The original Moonhole house was home to Tom and Gladdie Johnston, who built this impressive structure in the shadow of a huge natural volcanic arch. During certain times of the year moonlight streams through the arch and glistens on the waters below:

The original Moonhole home beneath a natural arch

It was near Moonhole where we weighed anchor to allow some to venture off the catamaran for a snorkeling adventure. Yes, those who partook reported the waters were on the chilly side:

Bequia snorkeling
Clear, coolish waters of Bequia

Did I mention that it was chilly? Our intrepid adventurers didn’t last too long in those waters. Within perhaps half an hour to forty-five minutes all were back aboard. It was time to head back east for lunch along the beach near Port Elizabeth. Strict social distancing rules applied. We had to maintain distance from the locals, head straight from the catamaran to the dining venue, and then straight back. No detours. So, we beached the catamaran in Lower Bay just long enough to disembark, which involved wading a short distance.

Then the catamaran anchored offshore:

Our steed awaits our return

Time to snap a quick panorama of Lower Bay with Port Elizabeth in the distance:

Lower Bay panorama

Then head off to an island lunch consisting of beans and rice, cabbage salad, plantains, mac and cheese, fried fish, and grilled chicken with an island hot sauce if you dare:

Bequia lunch

Most people found the lunch a bit lacking, but I enjoyed it. Of course I had to accompany that with a local beer:

Hairoun lager

After lunch it was back aboard and a quick swing by Port Elizabeth before heading back to Saint Vincent:.

Port Elizabeth, Bequia
Port Elizabeth, Bequia

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Southern Caribbean Cruising — Saint Vincent and the Grenadines


Welcome to Saint Vincent & the Grenadines

In late February Ursula and I boarded a series of flights that took us from El Paso to Dallas, to Miami, to Barbados. Once in Barbados we headed to the hotel as it was late, and we had a ship to catch the next day. That ship was Royal Caribbean’s ship Grandeur of the Seas, and it would take us on a fourteen-day journey to many destinations that Ursula and I had yet to visit in the Southern Caribbean. Our first stop would be in the Grenadines on the island country of Saint Vincent. Here, Covid protocols were quite strict. No one was allowed off ship unless they were part of a tour, so off we went on a catamaran adventure that would take us to another nearby island.

Our catamaran awaits

The tour was arranged through the ship, as personally booked tours did not meet the disembarkation requirements. We would have to remain with the group at all times, even at our ultimate destination.

Fellow Grandeur passengers

The catamaran was quite the treat — spacious, airy, and fairly stable on the approximately ten-mile/16-kilometer crossing. It did get a bit rough at one point, but nobody lost breakfast.

Setting sail

Looking back during our departure I managed to snag a few images of Saint Vincent at the port of Kingstown:

And, thus, we were off to the nearby island of Bequia. with our wonderful tour guide doing a marvelous job of keeping us informed the entire way.

Catamaran tour guide

Our first destination was Port Elizabeth, where we would remain offshore for pandemic restrictions. Here are the views that awaited us:

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Fun Food Friday — Goldie’s Conch House


Goldie’s Conch House — King of Conch

Both Ursula and I encountered cracked conch on a trip to Grand Cayman Island many years ago. It was at an all-you-can-eat (AYCE) place called, appropriately, The Cracked Conch. There is still a Cracked Conch restaurant on Grand Cayman, but it’s not at the previous location, and it may not be under the same ownership as it’s no longer AYCE. So, since the Bahamas are practically synonymous with cracked conch, Ursula decided we were going to have lunch in Nassau at a restaurant she found online. Thus, we found ourselves at Goldie’s Conch House.

Both indoor and outdoor dining

Ursula was also anxious to try a local drink called sky juice, which is made from gin, coconut water, sweetened condensed milk, and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon. I’ll just say that sky juice did not disappoint either of us:

Bahamian sky juice

I cannot say likewise for the rest of the meal, which we started with conch fritters. Now, I’ll be the first to admit that fritters are not my favorite way to eat conch, as I find this concoction is usually heavy on the stomach, and seldom arrives at the table as the crispy concoction one would expect of a “fritter” anything. Alas, Goldie’s version did nothing to change my mind. They were to me a bit bland and extremely heavy on the palate. On the upside, there were plenty of them; so much so that we didn’t even attempt to finish them. The accompanying sauce was tasty, but being mayonnaise based did nothing to mitigate the inherent heaviness of the dish.

Goldie’s conch fritters

Fortunately, the cracked conch was an improvement. It wasn’t the best we’d ever had, but it was passable. The conch could have done with a bit more tenderizing (you have the pound the heck out of conch to get the most out of it). Some pieces were tender while others were chewier than they should have been. The batter was light, which was a huge improvement over the conch fritters, but it wasn’t as crisp as I like. To be fair, the humidity must have been way up from the heavy rain so that might have been a factor. I’m inclined to give Goldie’s a second chance to see if that was indeed the reason.

Cracked conch, lime, and fries

The fries were okay, but far from European pomme frite standards. Let’s just call them far better than the grease-soaked mass served up at Five Guys (one visit several years ago was more than enough for both of us; we’ll never make that mistake again), but certainly not up to par with McDonald’s (and let’s face it, fries about the only reason to ever enter a McDonald’s).

Goldie’s cracked conch

All in all I’d give this visit 3½ forks out of five. And who knows? Our visit may have just been on an off day.

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Filed under Fun Food Friday, Photography, R. Doug Wicker, Restaurant Review, travel, vacation, Wine & Food