Category Archives: Wine & Food

Fun Food Friday — Attempting to duplicate Katz’s pastrami


Pastrami closeup

Today I’m going to reveal my secret to duplicating (as best I can) the incredible pastrami that comes from the incomparable Katz’s Delicatessen. It’s not that difficult to do, and although I’ll be the first to admit Katz’s is still better, I believe this comes as close as you’re going to get short of a trip to New York City.

What you’ll need:

  • Good quality corned beef brisket (don’t skimp here; you get what you pay for)
  • The packets of pickling spices included with those briskets
  • Additional coriander
  • Additional black peppercorns

Pickling seasonings packed with briskets; additional coriander and black peppercorns

Start with a good corned beef

But before we work with the seasonings above, let’s prepare the corned beef briskets. Corned beef straight from the vacuum-sealed pack is rather salty, which is why you boil it. But you don’t want to boil a brisket that you’re going to smoke into pastrami, so forget that. Instead, soak your briskets in cold water for 24 to 48 hours, changing the water several times.

Soak in cold water

Now that the brisket is soaking, let’s get back to those spices. Using a mortar and pestle, or if you don’t have the patience, a spice grinder, crush together the pickling seasonings that came with the brisket along with additional black peppercorns and coriander to pad out the amount of seasoning available.

Mix spices into mortar

Crush spices with pestle or in a spice grinder

Now rub vigorously the spices into the corned beef briskets. Putting a little oil onto the meat while your doing this won’t hurt, either, but it’s not absolutely necessary. Wrap tightly the briskets in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Rub seasoning into meat; wrap and refrigerate

The next day load up the smoker. Make sure to keep up your water levels to prevent the briskets from drying. Maintain a temperature of 225°F/110°C. What wood? Whatever you like. I used hickory, and that seemed to work just fine. I suspect apple, cherry, or even pecan would also work well. Keep up the smoke for at least three hours into the process, after which you can concentrate on just maintaining water levels.

Loading up the smoker

Now smoke the briskets for at least six hours. When they’re ready to pull out of the smoker they should look something like this:

Six or so hours later

But you’re not done yet! If you’re having the pastrami the next day, allow the briskets to cool and then wrap tightly with plastic wrap and put them in the refrigerator. If you hunger for this for dinner, continue to the next step (which you would instead do the next day if you decided to wait). That next step is to place your briskets onto a rack over a roasting pan, and to place water into the pan below the level of the meat.

Place briskets on a rack over a roasting pan; add water to pan

Tent heavy duty aluminum foil over the roasting pan and rack, making sure that the foil does not come into contact with the meat. Wrap tightly the foil around the edges so as to trap steam from the water in the pan.

Tent tightly with foil and steam in the oven

Steam the smoked briskets in the oven between 250°F/120°C and 275°F/135°C for two to three hours — thicker steams longer; thinner steams less. Take the briskets out of the oven, keeping the meat, rack, and pan tightly wrapped. Allow to cool gradually for at least 30 minutes or so. Remove the foil while taking care to avoid steam burns! Now slice the brisket and thinly as you can.

Slice thinly

Get a nice Jewish rye bread, some mustard, and a good quality Emmenthaler cheese (that’s what we call Swiss with holes), and build your sandwich!

Serve on rye with a good imported Emmenthaler (Swiss cheese)

Normally, this is the point where I give a wine pairing. But, hey, we’re talking pastrami here. That calls for a light ale! If I absolutely had to pair a wine with pastrami, however, I believe I would lean toward a lighter, fruitier red. Here I’m thinking pinot noir, petite syrah, sangiovese/chianti, perhaps even a tempranillo. If I wanted something a bit more robust to compliment the smoke flavor, I might try a zinfandel, but a shiraz would probably be a grape too far.

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54 Days at Sea — New York City’s famous Katz’s Delicatessen


Looking north on Bowery at Bleecker

There is one place in New York that Ursula and I consistently hit at least once each and every time. That is the incomparable Katz’s Delicatessen and their indescribably delicious pastrami sandwiches. Those sandwiches are piled so high that, if you take one along with a side of their marvelous fries, you better be prepared to share. Indeed, I doubt I could finish one on my own even without the fries. Look in the lower left corner of the photo below to see what I mean:

Katz’s Delicatessen

Katz’s is always busy every time we go there. But if there’s a wait, it’s definitely worth it.

Katz’s Delicatessen

Here’s a shot of Ursula waiting patiently for our shared pastrami on rye with a side of fries:

Katz’s Delicatessen

While Katz’s is world famous, I mentioned in Monday’s article that a rather suggestive, uproariously hilarious movie scene only further added to the mystique of this New York landmark. Yes, this was filmed in Katz’s Deli, and the last time I was there a sign hovered over the table that hosted Meg Ryan and Billy Crystal:

I doubt anyone can truly duplicate the wonderful flavor of Katz’s pastrami, but this week look for a special edition of Fun Food Friday as I come up with a really close impersonation. Until then, enjoy these New York City scenes:

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Fun Food Friday — Cuenca, Ecuador; Cositas Restaurant Review


Cositas Restaurant on Simón Bolívar

On our first evening in Cuenca, Ecuador, Ursula and I asked various locals where they enjoyed eating for a taste of traditional local food. Several recommended the place you see here — Cositas 10-24 Restaurante. How good was this place? Good enough that Ursula and I broke away from the tour group the next night and, with two tour comrades in tow, returned for a second helping. More on the second visit and our companions in a moment.

Cositas 10-24 Restaurante

On our first visit to Cositas we noticed the wall was adorned with innumerable photos of celebrities and body builders.  Here we met an expatriate American who claimed she was the former spouse of one such body builder who also had starred in several movies. I asked the name of the actor/body builder expecting to not recognize the name at all, but she surprised me when she replied, “Steve Reeves.” “Hercules?” I asked. And, yes, he was indeed the actor from the ’50s Italian films Hercules and Hercules Unchained. She was very pleased that I recognized the name well enough to associate it with his most famous role.

Ties and Celebrity Photographs

Our dinner companions on our second visit were Purviz Eivazi and his lovely wife Fatemeh, a delightful couple from Henderson, Nevada, originally by way of Iran. An absolutely wonderful couple whose company we enjoyed very much.

Parviz Eivazi

Fatemeh Eivazi and Ursula

Unfortunately, Cosita has no printed menu, and I failed to make note of our orders on these two visits, but both Ursula and I recall that the meals were very good (obviously, since we returned), and that Purviz and Fatemeh also enjoyed their choices. In place of traditional menus, photographs and descriptions of various offerings are displayed on the wall as you first enter and behind the cash register.

Menus behind the Register

Menus on the Wall

Everything was nicely prepared and delicious, as you can see from these photos of our dinners:

Cositas Restaurant

Cositas 10-24

Cositas 10-24

On your visit to Cuenca I can highly recommend this enchanting place with its unique choice in decorating accessories, intimate dining areas, and charming owner and staff. Google Maps seems a bit confused as to the location, so beware. Costias 10-24 is at 4-49 Simón Bolívar Street between Mariano Cueva and Vargas Machuca, about three and a half easy walking blocks east of Parque Calderón.

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