High Chaparral and Rifleman Country


The drive through southeastern Arizona and along the U.S. border with Mexico in southern New Mexico brings with it numerous reminders of the Wild, Wild West.  That’s especially true if you grew up watching Westerns on television.  Depart Bisbee, Arizona, southeast bound on Arizona 80 to Douglas, Arizona.  From Douglas, continue northward on Arizona 80 (formerly U.S. Route 80) into New Mexico, where the highway becomes New Mexico 80.  Shortly after passing into New Mexico you will find yourself at the intersection for New Mexico State Road 9, which will ultimately lead you to El Paso.

What, you may ask, is so special about this route?  The answer is simple: For the most part is parallels the old El Paso and Southwestern Railroad line (also known briefly as the Arizona and South Eastern Railroad), and in some stretches of New Mexico 9 the road is actually built atop the old railroad grade.

Not only will you see signs of the long-abandoned rail system, you’ll also find alongside what appears to be many of the Old West telegraph poles that accompanied the line — beautifully preserved in the hot, dry climate of the  Chihuahuan Desert.  Many poles not only retain their glass insulators, but some even have remnants of telegraph wire hanging from them.

Now for a bit of television history:

  • Southeastern Arizona is High Chaparral country.  The mythical cattle ranch of Big John Cannon was supposedly not far from here — about midway between Tucson and Tombstone — but the series also dealt with Cochise , Gernomino, and their Chiricahua Apache tribe.  That would appear to place the High Chaparral Ranch much closer to the Dragoon Mountains than to either Tombstone of Tuscon.
  • If you watched The Rifleman (by far the best of the old, thirty-minute, black-and-white Westerns of the late ’50s to early ’60s), then you might place the fictional North Fork, New Mexico somewhere near Santa Fe in the north of that state.  That’s unless you’re paying attention to other references made during the series — references frequently made to southern New Mexico towns such as Las Cruces, Silver City, and Lordsburg.  that would place North Fork much closer to the U.S.-Mexican Border in the extreme southern half of the state.

So, what does High Chaparral and Rifleman country look like?  It looks a bit like this (click on an image to bring up an album of larger versions):

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The Meaning of Memorial Day


Normandy American Cemetery, France

Honorably discharged veterans of the military are frequently thanked on this day for their service to their nation.  And although we are grateful for the thanks, veterans would like to remind you that Veterans Day (formerly Armistice Day and also known as Remembrance Day to our Commonwealth Cousins) is the time to celebrate military service both past and present.  Memorial Day is set aside to honor those who made the ultimate sacrifice in defense of a grateful nation.

Overlooking Omaha Beach, Normandy

Memorial Day was originally conceived as Decoration Day in the immediate wake of the Civil War, and it formally commemorated the horrendous loss of life experienced by both the Union and the Confederacy.

Statue Titled: The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves Normandy American Cemetery

The true meaning of Memorial Day has been all but obscured since Congress changed the date of observance from May 30 to the last Monday in May so as to create a three-day weekend.  Now, unfortunately, it’s seen more as a quasi National Barbeque Day and the unofficial First Day of Summer.  As a result its true meaning has been obscured to many.

M4 Sherman Tank on Utah Beach

Veterans Day suffered a similar fate – moved to the fourth Monday of October – but in this case Congress acknowledged the dilution of that holiday’s true meaning and moved it back to its hard date of November 11 a few years later. Congress really ought to do the same with Memorial Day.  To me, that’s a much more solemn occasion deserving of even more respect than Veterans Day.

German Gun Emplacement Overlooking Pointe de Hoc

On April of last year I had the solemn privilege of walking through some of the battlefields of the D-Day Invasion in Normandy, France.  It was a pilgrimage I had wanted to make since I was a youngster of nine sitting in a darkened theater at an Air Force Base in Ohio watching the classic film The Longest Day.  The pictures I took that cold day in April are what you’ve been experiencing throughout this blog.

Pointe de Hoc, Normandy

Below are a few more reminders of what we commemorate on this solemn occasion.  Included in those photographs are the markers for Medal of Honor recipient Brigadier General Theodore “Ted” Roosevelt, Jr. who died just five weeks after he led the landing at Utah Beach, and his younger brother 2nd Lieutenant Quentin Roosevelt of the 95th Aero Squadron (Pursuit), who also fell on French soil just two days shy of twenty-six years earlier — during World War I.  They are two brothers separated by two World Wars reunited a quarter century later in hallowed ground in Normandy, France.

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Continuing Through the Wild West


Before I got sidetracked by demolitions and a reposition cruise, I was running a series on a road trip we conducted in late March through southeastern Arizona and southern New Mexico.  In that series we visited Benson where we dined at a rather unique Mexican restaurant, hiked through Kartchner Caverns, and walked the dusty streets of Tombstone.

Today we return to that fun drive through the old west by continuing on to the Victorian-rich architecture of the southernmost mile-high city in the United States — Bisbee, Arizona.  Strolling through hilly Bisbee is almost like stepping through a time warp and winding up in San Francisco before the devastating 1906 earthquake.  Bisbeen has transformed itself over the decades from an important copper mining center into an artsy community with upscale restaurants (you just know there’s a review in this) and rowdy bars.  First, let’s take a look at the town of Bisbee, and then below those pictures you’ll find information on a delightful dining establishment:

Now for that review of the great Café Roka.  Want to find a great place to eat?  Ask a local.  The locals in Bisbee were pretty unanimous — Café Roka is the place.  Reservations are a must, and we got the last ones available for a reasonable hour, but we had to sit at the bar.  Regardless, I was glad we got in.  Check out the standard menu here, and enjoy the meal as we saw it:

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