The problem with traveling through the bazaars along the pedestrian streets of Cairo is that you eventually run out of pedestrian streets in Cairo. That dumps you onto a frenzied world of motorized mayhem in which the First Rule of the Road is that there are No Rules of the Road.
When it comes to traffic laws, something smells fishy here
Question: What defect totals a car in Cairo?
Cairo above the streets
Answer: An inoperable horn.
Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan
As you depart the cloth souk and angle to the left to the south southeast, you’ll know your time… and luck… have run out. When you reach the Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan, it’s time to head back to the hotel, which means you have to find a ride. In that traffic. Cairo traffic!
Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan
Think I’m exaggerating? Well, okay, then. Turn up your speakers and go full-screen on our Tuk-Tuk Transit of Total Terror, which follows is toward the end after some footage of other Cairo tooting traffic and terrified pedestrians:
Today I’m going to continue with something I began last Wednesday, a look at the sights in the Khayamiya Tentmakers Souk (Bazaar), otherwise known as the Khayamiya Cloth Souk. The location is within easy walking distance of the previously covered Khan el-Khalili Souk (Bazaar) and is just south of the southernmost gate in the wall surrounding Historic Cairo, the Bab Zuwayla:
Bab Zuwayla Gate, Historic Cairo area
As you head south from the Bab Zuwayla gate, you’ll encounter a covered area heading into the Khayamiya Cloth Souk:
Khayamiya Cloth (Tentmakers) Souk
That cover area only lasts about 80 meters/260 feet before you once again find yourself outdoors and back onto the streets:
Khayamiya Cloth (Tentmakers) Souk
Make sure you look skyward, lest you miss views such as these:
Minaret over Khayamiya
Minaret over Khayamiya
These photos were taken on 25 February of this year, so decorations were going up in preparation of Ramadan, which began on 1 March. So that explains the pennants you see hanging over the souk in this photo:
Ramadan decorations were going up everywhere
As well as the traditional Egyptian Ramadan delicacy of duck:
Ramadan feast in waiting
Get ready for our harrowing Tuk-Tuk Transit of Total Terror on Wednesday. Until then.
Be careful where you eat in Cairo. That’s no joke. When we took our children there in 1984, three out of the four of us got a severe case of Imhotep’s Revenge. From a salad bar, of all things. Making matters worse, there is only one toilet in a hotel room. First come, first served, and knocking on the door gets you nowhere. When you gotta go, you gotta runs, so to speak. By the way, did you know that diarrhea is hereditary? It runs in the jeans.
Imhotep — resistance was just as futile in 1984 as it was in 1932
But is that warning still valid in 2025? I don’t know, but I was unwilling to test the premise. Also, as you’ll find out my upcoming 6 August article, you’re taking your life into your own hands if you even think of crossing the street in Cairo. So, heading out to dinner on foot is a real adventure. Fortunately, we found a very acceptable restaurant on-site at our hotel, Mar Charbel. As for the hotel, it was very well appointed, quite comfortable, and relatively quiet save for the street noise, which you get everywhere in Cairo. Our only quibble was during check-in, as the desk staff could not find our reservations. But the wait just gave Ursula time to set up a tour, which you’ve seen already.
The view from our Mar Charbel room
The view from our Mar Charbel room
Fortunately, dining in your hotel means you needn’t brave crossing the street, and in a reputable hotel you won’t be subjected to The Wrath of Colon (William Shatner, Ricardoo Montalbuns, Paramound Sphincters, 1982). So, with those enticements in mind, up we traveled to the Mar Charbel Hotel Restaurant.
Mar Charbel Hotel Restaurant
Being a rooftop restaurant offers up some nice views of Cairo, especially as the Sun sets:
Cairo sunset view from the Mar Charbel rooftop restaurant
In the mood for Egyptian cuisine? You’ll find it here. Not all that adventurous? You see French, Italian, and even Mexican dishes on the menu. Looking for something really basic? Yes, even sandwiches, burgers & fries, pastas, and pizzas await you. But, when in Cairo…
The lentil soup was so good we kept coming back for more
Is spicy your thing? Got you covered:
Heinz Hot Sauce
The tables are nicely appointed here:
Mar Charbel Hotel Restaurant
Worried about eating raw vegetables? That’s what got us back in 1984, as the veggies were “washed” in the local tap water. If you’re worried (we had no problems here this trip), then just make sure you forego the salad, tell the waiter to leave off the parsley, and order your veggies cooked:
Breaded cutlet, fries, and mixed vegetables
Don’t forget dessert. You’ll even find milkshakes on the menu. But the dessert we kept coming back to was the lava cake:
Rich, decadent lava cake
Next week draws to a close our Cairo adventure, after which it’s time to head south for a Nile cruise.
Decisions — Murder in Paradise
The Globe — Murder in Luxury
R. Doug Wicker — Author 