We left Port Elizabeth behind, but we would be back later that day after a beachside lunch. But for now we had places to go and things to do, so we headed west along the Bequia coastline. Along the way we passed some pretty impressive yachts:
Not quite Russian oligarch standards, but…
Our next sight was quite unique. It’s calledMoonhole, and it has a fun history. It’s a 30-acre/12-ha site upon which a private rental community was founded in the 1960s. Several of the buildings along the shoreline were ravaged by a hurricane and remain abandoned. Currently Moonhole contains eleven privately owned homes and several rentals that go for a good chunk of change.
If you are curious as to how this site acquired the Moonhole moniker, the answer lies in the image below. The original Moonhole house was home to Tom and Gladdie Johnston, who built this impressive structure in the shadow of a huge natural volcanic arch. During certain times of the year moonlight streams through the arch and glistens on the waters below:
The original Moonhole home beneath a natural arch
It was near Moonhole where we weighed anchor to allow some to venture off the catamaran for a snorkeling adventure. Yes, those who partook reported the waters were on the chilly side:
Bequia snorkeling
Clear, coolish waters of Bequia
Did I mention that it was chilly? Our intrepid adventurers didn’t last too long in those waters. Within perhaps half an hour to forty-five minutes all were back aboard. It was time to head back east for lunch along the beach near Port Elizabeth. Strict social distancing rules applied. We had to maintain distance from the locals, head straight from the catamaran to the dining venue, and then straight back. No detours. So, we beached the catamaran in Lower Bay just long enough to disembark, which involved wading a short distance.
Then the catamaran anchored offshore:
Our steed awaits our return
Time to snap a quick panorama of Lower Bay with Port Elizabeth in the distance:
Lower Bay panorama
Then head off to an island lunch consisting of beans and rice, cabbage salad, plantains, mac and cheese, fried fish, and grilled chicken with an island hot sauce if you dare:
Bequia lunch
Most people found the lunch a bit lacking, but I enjoyed it. Of course I had to accompany that with a local beer:
Hairoun lager
After lunch it was back aboard and a quick swing by Port Elizabeth before heading back to Saint Vincent:.
In late February Ursula and I boarded a series of flights that took us from El Paso to Dallas, to Miami, to Barbados. Once in Barbados we headed to the hotel as it was late, and we had a ship to catch the next day. That ship was Royal Caribbean’s ship Grandeur of the Seas, and it would take us on a fourteen-day journey to many destinations that Ursula and I had yet to visit in the Southern Caribbean. Our first stop would be in the Grenadines on the island country of Saint Vincent. Here, Covid protocols were quite strict. No one was allowed off ship unless they were part of a tour, so off we went on a catamaran adventure that would take us to another nearby island.
Our catamaran awaits
The tour was arranged through the ship, as personally booked tours did not meet the disembarkation requirements. We would have to remain with the group at all times, even at our ultimate destination.
Fellow Grandeur passengers
The catamaran was quite the treat — spacious, airy, and fairly stable on the approximately ten-mile/16-kilometer crossing. It did get a bit rough at one point, but nobody lost breakfast.
Setting sail
Looking back during our departure I managed to snag a few images of Saint Vincent at the port of Kingstown:
And, thus, we were off to the nearby island of Bequia. with our wonderful tour guide doing a marvelous job of keeping us informed the entire way.
Catamaran tour guide
Our first destination was Port Elizabeth, where we would remain offshore for pandemic restrictions. Here are the views that awaited us:
On Wednesday we looked at the various Covid-19 health protocol contradictions on the dining venues (and the elevators) aboard Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas. Today we’ll take a look at how those protocols affected the overall cruise experience in other venues, and I’ll start today with the Royal Theater, in which the nightly entertainment performed. Now, one might think with a ship running below 50% capacity (in the case of Voyage 1, well below), Royal Caribbean might have been tempted to skimp on their comedians, singers, and production shows. They most assuredly did not. The entertainment was what one has come to expect from a major cruise line — exceptional.
Ovation‘s North Star observation platform — protocol limited to four
Seating in the Royal Theater is on two levels. The lower main seating area allowed unmasking and was not socially distanced, although couples/groups were requested to leave two seats empty between them. Unvaccinated children and their accompanying guardians were restricted to the upper theater seating area, and masks were required for them throughout the show. For those shows expecting near capacity crowds, reservations were highly recommended.
“Virtual Balcony” cabin…
… with its 80-inch LCD “Virtual Balcony”
As with Sorrento’s pizzeria, Windjammer buffet, and other non-main dining room venues, bar tables were placarded as unavailable to facilitate social distancing. This became a factor for Ursula and me mostly during the slightly more crowded Voyage 2. But we also ran up against this during the less crowded Voyage 1 at our favorite, Schooner Bar. There were times we could not get a comfortable table, as we both get uncomfortable sitting at tall tables on chairs where our feet dangle rather than touch the floor. After a while it starts to get to you in the back of the legs and in the hips. Whoever came up with this bright invention needs to be made to sit like that for six hours, straight twice a day, for a solid week so as to get a clue. And just to show how arbitrary and at times silly the protocols got, that El Paso couple we were seated next to in Silk? They invited us to sit with them at their table in Schooners when no others were available, but the wait staff would not allow it.
Getting into Schooner Bar could be a challenge, even during Voyage 1
So, social distancing strictly enforced in the bars and some dining venues. But not in… the casino! We found that exception rather interesting. But, then, cruise lines are notorious at making exceptions for revenue-raking casinos, including smoking areas. Sorry, but a designated smoking area in a large room is to me like the designated peeing area in a swimming pool — the concept of segregating either is pretty much meaningless. You see, there’s this thing called diffusion…. but I digress.
Casino Royale — no, really; that’s its name
Then we get back to the bars, which once again have every other table placarded as unavailable. Below are Boleros, a bar and entertainment venue, and Music Hall and Music Hall bar:
Boleros
Music Hall — lower area
Music Hall — upper level bar
Bottom line on all this: The Covid-19 health protocols were at times a hinderance, and at times amusing in their unequal application. Seldom were they an inconvenience (but then there’s those elevator trolls I discussed on Wednesday) until Voyage 2. Whereas Ovation easily handled protocols at 1,600 passengers, things began to unravel at 2,300. I can only extrapolate that they worsened the next week when the capacity grew to 3,000, but I don’t know that for certain as we were not there. All things considered, I’m glad we went on both Voyage 1 and the slightly more crowded (700 more) Voyage 2. But I’d be really hesitant at seeing what would be in store for a ship at full capacity with these protocols in place. From my experience the elevators would be rendered useless; dining outside the main dining rooms probably impossible without long waits, and the bars nothing more than a venue into which to peer at those lucky souls who found a table. Fortunately, I don’t see full capacity becoming a serious problem for the time being, but at some point cruise lines are going to have to trust that masking and vaccinations will overcome the need to mandate social distancing requirements. And the only way I see that happening is to quit accommodating those who are unvaccinated, which in this case means families with children below vaccination ages.
Beginning next week I’ll present the destinations we hit on these back-to-back voyages. But for now here are a few more photos of Ovation of the Seas:
Izumi Sushi Bar
Wonderland Restaurant (extra cost)
Riding the North Star in Endicott Arm/Dawes Glacier
Decisions — Murder in Paradise
The Globe — Murder in Luxury
R. Doug Wicker — Author 