Category Archives: Wine & Food

Étouffée—The Secret is in the Super-Secret Spice Blend


Spring is just around the corner, so you don’t have a whole lot of time left to sample this absolutely delectable cool-weather dish.  Not that étouffée can’t be eaten any time of year, it’s just that étouffée seems especially up to the task of taking the chill out of your bones while at the same time providing you a hearty yet undeniably healthy meal that doesn’t taste healthy in the slightest.

Étouffée may sound French, but it’s probably the quintessential example of Louisiana cooking at its finest.  The word itself is indeed French, and roughly translates to ‘smothered,’ which in Louisiana-speak means to cook something in liquid until it’s reduced to a thickened gravy or stew-like consistency.

What you’ll need:

The Roux Stuff:

5 Tbsp unsalted butter
5 Tbsp all-purpose flour

The Disgustingly Healthy Stuff:

1 large or two small yellow onions—skinned, trimmed, and quartered
2 large green bell peppers—cored, seeded, and quartered
3 to four celery stalks with leaves—cut into two-inch pieces
1 large bunch of parsley—roughly chopped with stems (trim just the very end of the stems and discard)
1 to two bunches of green onion—roughly chopped, including most of the long, green parts
4 or more (up to half a head) cloves of garlic

The Liquid Stuff:

1 16oz can of crushed tomato
1 cup dry white wine (examples:  pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc)
1 to 1¼ cups chicken, turkey, or beef broth

The Tasty Stuff:

2 12oz packages of crawfish tails or an equal amount of deveined shrimp

The Super-Secret Spice Blend Stuff:

Sorry—it’s a super-secret
Just kidding
1 Tbsp whole thyme leaves
1½ Tbsp Tabasco
1 Tbsp Worcestershire
1 tsp whole basil leaves
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp salt
2 tsp cumin
¼ cayenne pepper
2 bay leaves

In a large Dutch oven, toast the flour in the melted butter, stirring frequently.

You'll roux the day

While the flour is toasting, put batches of The Healthy Stuff and chop in a food processor.  Don’t overdo this, and process each vegetable separately to avoid overcrowding the processor.  Use the pulse feature, and stop when the vegetables are still course and in discernible chunks, except for the parsley and garlic.  For these, the finer the chop the better.

It may look healthy, but wait until you taste it

Still stirring that butter/flour roux mixture, I hope.  Is it tan, almost a peanut butter brown, yet?  Good.  Time to throw in the vegetables and cook them until they’re nicely softened and thoroughly coated in the roux.

No, it's not peanut butter

It's still green . . . but not for long

Slowly stir in the broth, white wine, and the crushed tomatoes.

The green is going away

Don't whine—here's the wine

Once the liquids are blended into the mixture, add the Super-Secret Spice Blend.  Bring to a simmer and cover.  Simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, for forty-five minutes.

The Super-Secret Spices—Yummy

While this is going on, make your rice.  I use parboiled long grain white (such as Uncle Ben’s) and melt in some butter after the rice is cooked.

You Know it's Done when it Looks Like Mud

Add your crawfish tails and simmer for another twenty minutes.  Or, if you’re using shrimp, let them simmer for around ten.  Shrimp get a bit tough if they’re overdone.

Now for the Tasty Stuff

Can You Smell It?

Serve on oven-warmed plates (about 200°) over a bed of rice accompanied by a nice glass of sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio.

Hint:  Make the base étouffée, sans shellfish, the day before and refrigerate.  The spices meld and better permeate the vegetables if left overnight.  About forty-five minutes before the guests arrive, start getting the étouffée back up to a simmer and add your shellfish just as the guests are arriving.  Serve as above ten to twenty minutes later, depending on whether you used shrimp or crawfish.

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A Super Dip for the Super Bowl


I first printed this recipe about one week too late for last year’s Super Bowl, but this year it’ll be right on time to absolutely WOW your guests.   In addition to the suggested uses below (besides as a chip dip), I’ve since taken to using it also as a pizza sauce and in macaroni and cheese.

So, reprinted from last year, here is my soon to be world famous Jalapeño Pesto Dip:

The great things about this recipe are:

  • It’s healthy as all get out.
  • It’s so tasty you’ll completely forget how healthy it is.
  • It’s not as spicy hot as it sounds (although it’s definitely not for the timid of tongue, either).
  • It goes great with anything from tortilla chips to corn chips to potato chips to even pretzels.
  • It’s so simple to make even a husband can do it.
  • The leftover jalapeño pesto is great on a whole variety of dishes ranging from omelets to burgers (use as a topping)  and even mixed with ground beef for tacos or chili.  By all means use your imagination with the leftover pesto, because you’ll probably think up dozens of uses for it.

Ingredients:

  • 2 pounds fresh whole  jalapeño peppers
  • 2 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. granulated or fresh crushed garlic
  • 1 tsp. sea salt
  • ⅓ cup good extra virgin olive oil or other healthy monounsaturated oil

Step 1. Bring to boil just enough water to immerse the jalapeños.  Once the water is boiling, add the jalapeños and bring the water back to boiling.  Gently boil the jalapeños, stirring occasionally, for fifteen minutes.  Drain the jalapeños and set aside until they are cool enough to handle.

Step 2. Slice the jalapeños in half lengthwise and remove the stems.  Now, this next procedure is where you control the heat to some extent.  On most of the jalapeños, remove the seeds and the ribs to which those seeds are attached.  Keep the seeds and ribs on approximately one-third of the jalapeños, choosing in particular those jalapeños with very white, healthy-looking seeds and discarding those seeds that are dingy or brown in color.  Increasing the number of seeds and ribs retained will increase the heat; decreasing that number will help to tame it.

Step 3. Place the jalapeños, cumin, garlic, and salt into a food processor.  While pulsing, slowly drizzle in the olive oil.  Do no overdo the processing or you’ll destroy those beautiful white seeds and lose texture, but you do want a fairly smooth consistency.

Serve with either warm or cold with your favorite chips. Warm is particularly interesting, especially if you contrast that with a well-refrigerated California onion dip (one envelope of Lipton’s Onion Soup Mix combined with one pint of reduced-fat sour cream).  Serve these two dips side-by-side and watch eager fans alternate between the two of them.

And since this is listed under Wine & Food the next question would have to be, what kind of wine would you serve with this?  Well, first of all, this is definitely an accompaniment to beer, especially a good, fairly strong ale.  But if you would like wine with this, it’ll have to be one that helps tame the fire.  That suggests a semisweet white.  Think:  Johannisberg or German Rieslings, Chenin Blanc, or Gewürztraminer.  The cooler white wine serving temperatures supply immediate relief and the sweetness helps neutralize the capsaicin (the compound that gives peppers their “heat”) in the long term.

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Swiss Winter Dishes—Fondue


Last week we covered how to make a great, crunchy, French-style baguette.  Now, if only we had something to do with all that bread.

Hey, I know!  Let’s make Fondue!

We’ve already discussed that other great Swiss Winter comfort food Raclette, but it’s traditional cheese fondue with which Switzerland is more commonly associated.  Tthe really great thing is that it’s so easy to make.  And, like Raclette, it’s a great dinner party dish as it’s served piping hot at the table.

You’ll need for four people:

Garlic.  Lots of garlic.

700 grams (a little over a pound and a half) of true, imported Swiss Emmentaler (the Swiss cheese with the holes in it) and Gruyère (an even yummier Swiss cheese without holes).  Go heavier on the Gruyère than on the Emmentaler.  A 400gr/300gr (14oz/10.5 oz) or 450gr/250gr (16 oz/9 oz) split would be a good start.

Seven tenths of a liter (basically one deciliter for every 100 grams of cheese—plus or minus depending on how thin you want your fondue) of good, dry wine such as Johannisberg Riesling or, better still, Pinot Grigio (Italy’s Cavit makes an affordable, consistently good one that’s readily available just about anywhere).  The traditional wine is Fendant, but you probably won’t find it.

One large spoonful of corn starch.

A quarter cup of good Swiss, German, or Austrian Kirschwasser (commonly called “Kirsch,” a dry cherry-based brandy—don’t get the sweet domestic stuff).

Nutmeg and white pepper to taste

Optionally, a half teaspoon of lemon juice.

From here on I’ll forgo the prose and let the pictures talk you through it:

A few of our ingredients

You can’t be too thin, too rich, or have too much garlic

Coarsly chop the garlic—very coarsely

Vigorously rub the garlic all around the inside of the fondue pan

Add the wine and bring to a boil—lemon juice comes in now if you’re using it

While you’re waiting for the wine to boil, cut the baguettes lengthwise . . .

. . . then into bite-sized pieces

Dissolve corn starch into Kirsch

Slowly add small handfuls of the grated cheese, melting thoroughly between handfuls

Keep adding and melting, stirring constantly

After the cheese is nicely melted, stir in the corn starch and Kirsch mixture—blend thoroughly and continue cooking for two minutes

Place on the table over a burner and season with white pepper and nutmeg to taste

Guests take turns stirring with speared bread (and then greedily devouring)—don’t let the bottom scorch!

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