Category Archives: Wine & Food

“Fried” Eggplant Parmigiana without the Frying


The End Result!

The End Result!

Eggplant parmigiana.  Who doesn’t just love a really good one?  Problem is that all good parmigianas are fried in oil, right?  After all, if it’s not fried it’s not crisp.  If it’s not crisp it’s not good.

Wrong.  Here’s my version of this classic dish.  It’s crisp, light, not greasy, reheats well, and once it comes out of the oven you can serve it any way you want:  As is either as a side or the main star; individually topped with marinara and mozzarella and baked again; layered lasagna-style, again with marinara and perhaps ricotta and parmesan and topped with mozzarella.

I’m also going to show you the secret to removing the bitter flavor some people taste when eating eggplant.  So, if eggplant normally tastes on the bitter side to you, you may still want to give this a try.

What You'll Need

What You’ll Need

What you’ll need:

  • One large, firm, fresh eggplant
  • Salt . . . lots of salt
  • All purpose flour
  • Egg wash (2 eggs beaten with four tablespoons of water)
  • Breadcrumbs (I prefer plain, although you may like Italian)
  • Cooking spray
  • Optionally — grated parmesan cheese

Cut the eggplant into thick slices — from ⅓- to ½-inch thick.

Now for that secret trick to remove the bitterness that some people seem to taste in eggplant:  Liberally coat both sides of each slice with lots of salt, place the slices into a bowl or colander, and just let the slices sit for about an hour.  You’ll notice that the salt seems to extract from the eggplant a darkish liquid.  That’s what we’re looking to draw out.  After the salt has done its job just rinse it away along with the bitterness and pat dry the slices.

Salt Away the Bitterness

Salt Away the Bitterness

Rinsed and dried

Rinsed and dried

At this point you may want to mildly salt the slices again, but there will be some residual salt inside the slices so go sparingly.  Dredge the slices through the flour.

Floured

Floured

Coat both sides of each floured slice with the egg wash.

Dipped in Egg Wash

Dipped in Egg Wash

Toss the eggplant with breadcrumbs until thoroughly coated.  Here’s where the optional parmesan cheese comes in — mix some into the breadcrumbs for additional flavor if desired.

Coated in Bread Crumbs

Coated in Bread Crumbs

Arrange the slices onto a rack placed inside a shallow oven-proof tray.  Spray the top of the slices with a layer of oil.

Sprayed with Cooking Oil

Sprayed with Cooking Oil

Place the eggplant, rack, and tray under the broiler, but not too close.  You want the slices at least eight inches to a foot away.  If your oven has a “Convection Roast” feature (in which the convection fan blows while the broiler element supplies the heat) so much the better.  This is the method I use with the oven set to about 400° to 425°.

Check the slices frequently.  Once they start to brown they can burn pretty quickly.  When the slices are nicely and evenly browned remove the tray from the oven.  Flip the eggplant slices and spray another layer of oil on the newly exposed side.  Return to the oven and brown.

Flip and Repeat

Flip and Repeat

Once the oven “frying” is complete remove the eggplant and use in any of several ways as mentioned above.

Wine pairing:  Hey, it’s Italian.  You certainly can’t go wrong with Sangiovese or Chianti Classico, right?  Other options include Shiraz if you’re using a spicy marinara.  Pinot Noir makes another good choice, especially if you’re going to serve the slices straight out of the oven.  Tempranillo would make for a creative but workable pairing.  I would tend to stay away from Super Tuscans, Bordeaux-style reds, or heartier Zinfandels as they would probably overpower the delicate eggplant flavor.

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Bonus Blog, Bonus Recipe — A Super Dip for the Super Bowl


Here’s my annual Super Bowl Super Dip Recipe:

In addition to the suggested uses below (besides as a chip dip), I’ve since taken to using it also as a pizza sauce and in macaroni and cheese.

So, reprinted from last year, here is my soon to be world famous Jalapeño Pesto Dip:

The great things about this recipe are:

  • It’s healthy as all get out.
  • It’s so tasty you’ll completely forget how healthy it is.
  • It’s not as spicy hot as it sounds (although it’s definitely not for the timid of tongue, either).
  • It goes great with anything from tortilla chips to corn chips to potato chips to even pretzels.
  • It’s so simple to make even a husband can do it.
  • The leftover jalapeño pesto is great on a whole variety of dishes ranging from omelets to burgers (use as a topping)  and even mixed with ground beef for tacos or chili.  By all means use your imagination with the leftover pesto, because you’ll probably think up dozens of uses for it.

Ingredients:

  • 2 pounds fresh whole  jalapeño peppers
  • 2 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. granulated or fresh crushed garlic
  • 1 tsp. sea salt
  • ⅓ cup good extra virgin olive oil or other healthy monounsaturated oil

Step 1. Bring to boil just enough water to immerse the jalapeños.  Once the water is boiling, add the jalapeños and bring the water back to boiling.  Gently boil the jalapeños, stirring occasionally, for fifteen minutes.  Drain the jalapeños and set aside until they are cool enough to handle.

Step 2. Slice the jalapeños in half lengthwise and remove the stems.  Now, this next procedure is where you control the heat to some extent.  On most of the jalapeños, remove the seeds and the ribs to which those seeds are attached.  Keep the seeds and ribs on approximately one-third of the jalapeños, choosing in particular those jalapeños with very white, healthy-looking seeds and discarding those seeds that are dingy or brown in color.  Increasing the number of seeds and ribs retained will increase the heat; decreasing that number will help to tame it.

Step 3. Place the jalapeños, cumin, garlic, and salt into a food processor.  While pulsing, slowly drizzle in the olive oil.  Do no overdo the processing or you’ll destroy those beautiful white seeds and lose texture, but you do want a fairly smooth consistency.

Serve with either warm or cold with your favorite chips. Warm is particularly interesting, especially if you contrast that with a well-refrigerated California onion dip (one envelope of Lipton’s Onion Soup Mix combined with one pint of reduced-fat sour cream).  Serve these two dips side-by-side and watch eager fans alternate between the two of them.

And since this is listed under Wine & Food the next question would have to be, what kind of wine would you serve with this?  Well, first of all, this is definitely an accompaniment to beer, especially a good, fairly strong ale.  But if you would like wine with this, it’ll have to be one that helps tame the fire.  That suggests a semisweet white.  Think:  Johannisberg or German Rieslings, Chenin Blanc, or Gewürztraminer.  The cooler white wine serving temperatures supply immediate relief and the sweetness helps neutralize the capsaicin (the compound that gives peppers their “heat”) in the long term.

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Easy Parker House Rolls — Expertly Adapted by R. Doug Wicker


400° at About 16 Minutes

Fresh from the Oven

Another Baking Day at the Casa de Wicker.  I recently came across an internet article for something that looked interesting — Parker House Rolls.  Problem was that the recipe provided used six cups of flour and made way too many rolls, 3½ dozen to be precise.  The original Parker Omni recipe also seemed unnecessarily complicated and tedious.  For instance I hate hand-kneading when I can get the same results much more quickly and efficiently through mechanical means.

Thus it was time to get inventive.  First I would have to reduce the amounts.  Then I would need to come up with an alternative method of mixing all the ingredients together.  What I came up with is super simple, incredibly easy, and very tasty.  The amount came out to a baker’s dozen, a perfect amount for a family of two for breakfast with a half-dozen more available for freezing and later use.

Parker House Rolls Ingredients

Parker House Rolls Ingredients

What you’ll need:

  • 2 cups general purpose flour
  • 2 ½ tbsp. sugar
  • ¾ tsp. salt
  • 1 ½ tsp. yeast
  • 3 tbsp. softened butter
  • 1 ½ tbsp. beaten egg
  • ⅔ cups hot water straight from the tap
  • Another 3 to 4 tbsp. butter for later in the recipe
  • More flour for rolling out the dough and forming the rolls

Step 1:  Assemble your food processor with the plastic dough blade.  Place the flour, sugar, salt, yeast, and 3 tablespoons of softened butter into the food processor.  Pulse the food processor until all ingredients are combined.

Step 2:  Pulse into the above ingredients the ⅔ cups of hot water and the 1 ½ tablespoons of beaten egg.  Scrape sides as necessary.  Keep pulsing until the liquids are completely incorporated and the mixture forms a uniform dough.

In the Food Processor

In the Food Processor

Step 3.  Place the dough into a buttered bowl and turn the dough so that it is fully greased on all sides.  Cover the bowl and allow the yeast to do its work at a temperature of between 80° and 85° (27° to 29° Celsius).  I place mine in a warmed oven and regulate the temperature accordingly.  Let the dough rise for about 1 ½ hours.

Buttered Bowl

Step 4.  Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and form into a tight ball.  Cover the dough ball with the inverted bowl and let rest for about ten minutes or so.

After Proofing — Form into a Ball

After Proofing — Form into a Ball

Step 5.  While the dough is resting, place a baking sheet over low heat and melt onto it about 3 tablespoons of butter.  Smear the melted butter around the baking sheet.

Heating a Baking Pan

Heating a Baking Pan

Melting the Butter

Melting the Butter

Step 6.  Roll the dough out to a thickness of ½ inch (1.25 centimeters).  Cut the dough into 2 ¾-inch (7 centimeter) rounds.  Dip the rounds into the melted butter, coating both sides, and fold.  I find the rounds fold a bit more nicely and hold together better if I stretch them slightly into an oval shape.  Arrange the folded rolls in rows with the rolls slightly touching.  Don’t worry about the rolls sticking together.  They come apart quite nicely after the baking.

Roll Dough to ½-Inch

Roll Dough to ½-Inch

Cut into 2¾-Inch Rounds

Cut into 2¾-Inch Rounds

Ready to Fold

Ready to Fold

Step 7.  Cover the rolls and return them to the warmed oven for another rise of about forty minutes.  While this is going on heat your other oven to 400° (205° Celsius).

Dipped in Butter and Folded

Dipped in Butter and Folded

Step 8.  Uncover the risen rolls and place into the hot oven for between 15 and 18 minutes (16 minutes worked perfectly for me) until the rolls are nicely and uniformly browned.

40-Minute Rise

40-Minute Rise

You’re done.  Serve warm with more butter, your favorite jam or jelly, or dripping in honey.

400° at About 16 Minutes

400° at About 16 Minutes

My Swiss-born and raised wife Ursula who lives for European-style breads positively loved these light, fluffy, and slightly sweet rolls.  The buttery taste is vaguely reminiscent of the French croissant, but Ursula actually preferred the taste of these rolls.  That’s high praise indeed coming from a European.

Going Fast!

Going Fast!

At any rate I would use these rolls in place of most biscuit applications not involving gravy.  As such they’re definitely going to find a place at our table come next Thanksgiving Day.  They’re just too easy to make and too tasty to forgo for a meal that special.

Freezing and Reheating Tips:  Tightly cover each individual roll in plastic wrap and place them into a freezer bag.  When ready to use defrost overnight in the refrigerator or on the counter for about an hour.  Unwrap and place the defrosted rolls into a steamer basket and steam for five minutes.  Place the steamed rolls onto a tray and put them into a 250° oven for about five minutes to take care of any residual sogginess from the steaming process.

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