Tag Archives: restaurant review

The La Luz Gem — Nuckleweed Place


Nuckleweed Place

Nuckleweed Place

East of U.S. 54/70 between Alamogordo and Tularosa in New Mexico is a little town called La Luz.  It’s a charming little community with an interesting old church.  But La Luz was not really our destination for lunch this fine Sunday afternoon.  Instead, we headed up the beautiful Laborcita Canyon for a place Ursula read about in New Mexico Magazine.  It’s not fancy.  In fact, it’s a restaurant contained within a mobile home.  The food, however, is exquisite.

This hidden gem nestled in a picturesque canyon in the foothills of the Sacramento Mountains is called Nuckleweed Place, and it’s well worth the detour to get there.

Looking Out Upon the Tularosa Basin and White Sands

Looking Out Upon the Tularosa Basin and White Sands

Before continuing with this review, let me apologize for the photographs of the food.  I did not have with me that day my usual restaurant review camera (Panasonic ZS6), as we were headed toward the Three Rivers Petroglyph area and I instead had taken my primary landscape camera (Canon G1 X).  Just goes to show the importance of using the proper tool for the job at hand.

Nuckleweed Converted Mobile Home

Nuckleweed Converted Mobile Home

Transitioning from the Nuckleweed’s modest exterior into it’s rather neatly appointed interior is almost a shock.  You step into a formal entryway.  To the left is a professional restaurant-grade stove and oven beneath an equally impressive restaurant-grade range hood.

The Entryway

The Entryway

An Unexpected Professional Kitchen in an Unlikely Setting

An Unexpected Professional Kitchen in an Unlikely Setting

And then you step into the main dining room — the first of two:

The Main Dining Room

The Main Dining Room

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Fun Tables and Chairs

But you may want to forgo the dining room for the views outside on the back dining deck:

The Back Porch Dining Area — What Views!

The Back Porch Dining Area — What Views!

As for the menu, well, it may at first appear a bit limited but once you taste the food you’ll see why — Nuckleweed concentrates on doing a few things very well rather than a lot of things mediocrely.  The breads come fresh from the oven, and I could immediately tell that the bleu cheese dressing was homemade (I even compared bleu cheese dressing recipes with the owner as we chatted after lunch).

Bread Fresh from the Oven

Bread Fresh from the Oven

Homemade Bleu Cheese Dressing as Good as My Own

Homemade Bleu Cheese Dressing as Good as My Own . . . Okay, maybe better

Ursula opted for the Cod sandwich, which presented to her a very nice portion of fresh-tasting cod expertly battered and served upon more freshly baked bread.  A surprising twist was the homemade tartar sauce that accompanied it.

Out-of-This-World Cod Sandwich with Homemade Tartar Sauce

Out-of-This-World Cod Sandwich with Homemade Tartar Sauce

I opted for the chicken-fried steak with real (not from a box) mashed potatoes and a very tasty cream gravy.  I was not disappointed.  The steak was so tender that you could easily be forgiven for at first thinking that it might be made from ground beef.  The flavor belies that notion.  This is Grade-A cow and so tender that it practically falls apart.  No knife needed here.

Chicken-Fried Steak, Mashed Potatoes, and Cream Gravy

Chicken-Fried Steak, Mashed Potatoes, and Cream Gravy

It’s my understanding that this place is really known to the locals for its Sunday brunch.  Oh, well . . . perhaps next time.

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For Menudo Fans


Ooops.  Wrong “menudo.”  I meant this stuff:

A Bowl of Red

A Bowl of Red

Menudo is one of El Paso’s best kept secrets.  And it’s either really, really good or dismally bad.  There is seldom an in-between with this stuff.  El Paso’s La Malinche serves a very, very good bowl of menudo.

La Malinche

La Malinche

Traditionally, menudo is served on weekends for breakfast, as it purportedly has recuperative powers post-hangover.  I’ve never eaten it for that reason, but both Ursula and I love a good, steaming bowl of it . . . especially on a cold winter morning.  Alas, it’s June and in the triple-digits of late, but on Fathers Day we went anyway.

So, how long have we been going to La Malinche for menudo?  Here’s an indication.  See this woman?

Sandra

Sandra

That’s Sandra.  She’s been serving us for years, and she doesn’t even bother to ask us anymore what we want.  She just motions us to one of the tables in her section; plops down a pitcher of tea and glasses with ice; fetches the onion, green lemon slices, Mexican oregano and crushed chili pepper; and then weaves through the hungry throngs to deliver to us some of the best menudo you will ever eat.

Tea, "Limón," and Onion

Tea, “Limón,” and Onion

Menudo, Bread, Oregano, and Crushed Peppers

Menudo, Bread, Oregano, and Crushed Peppers

Menudo is a chili-based broth containing posole (Mexican hominy) and chunks of beef tripe (the “menudo” in menudo) that have been simmered for hours until they are marvelously tender.  This is not to be confused is a bowl of “posole,” which substitutes pork for tripe and is not nearly as flavorful.

As with most of the really good Mexican restaurants, La Malinche is a real hole-in-the-wall lacking in both charm and ambiance.  You come here for the food, not the decor.

La Malinche

La Malinche

 But that’s okay.  That’s what really good and authentic Mexican cuisine is all about, and it’s part of the dining experience.

Now, how to properly dress a bowl of menudo:  Here locally menudo is served with bread (either toasted with butter or in whole rolls), green lemon wedges, chopped yellow onion, “Mexican oregano” (course, whole buds of the lippia graveolens plant) , and crushed red chili.  We prefer the whole bread to the toasted so that it can be broken into pieces and floated into the broth to soak it up.  So spoon in some chopped onion, drizzle on some lemon juice, float some of that bread, and sprinkle on some chili pepper and “oregano” (easy on the chili).  As for that “oregano,” we like to rub it vigorously between the palms as we sprinkle it.  As with most herbs, rubbing released both the essence and the flavor.

Do all that and this is what you get:

Menudo Dressed and Ready

Menudo Dressed and Ready

What a great way to wake up to Fathers Day in El Paso, Texas.

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Benson, Arizona, Kartchner Caverns, and a Bonus Restaurant Review


Texas Canyon — An area in Southeastern Arizona not far from the New Mexico stateline:

Less than fifty miles southeast of Tucson, Arizona, is a small town called Benson.  Benson isn’t really famous for much.  You may even rightly wonder why Ursula and I made the trip out to Benson over this year’s Easter Weekend.  Benson was founded in 1880 as a stop along the Southern Pacific Railroad, and not much has happened there since.  At least, not much had happened there until the discovery of Kartchner Caverns some nine miles to the south (just over 13 driving miles), and the recent conversion of those caverns into an Arizona State Park.  Now, Benson acts as the overnight stay for those going through Kartchner Caverns.

There are two tours available at Kartchner Caverns.  The Rotunda/Throne Room tour is available nearly year round.  The Big Room is open from mid-October until mid-April.  This year the Big Room tour ceases on April 15 for the annual migration of around 1,000 female Myotis velifer bats, which use this portion of the caverns as a nursery in which to deliver and raise their young.  Both tours are easy to make and require little in the way of physical exertion.  Indeed, the tours are both wheelchair accessible.

I took some fun shots on the approach to Kartchner, but that’s all I could do.  Park regulations do not allow any photographic equipment (not even cell phones or other electronic devices containing cameras) into the cavern environment.  This is rather disappointing when compared to the more lenient rules in Carlsbad Caverns.  And, as I’ve shown in a previous blog on photographing Carlsbad Caverns, knowledgeable and educated photographers truly can live in harmony with delicate cave environments.

Here are my photos of the approach to Kartchner and the surrounding areas (including some really great desert flora):

And here (something I’m loathe to do) are photographs taken not by me, but made available at the Kartchner Caverns website:

Getting back to Benson for a moment, I simply must review a great little restaurant find we made on the way.  It’s called Mi Casa, and it’s very difficult to locate as it’s small and situated well back from the street on which it’s located (732 W. 4th Street, Benson).  Mi Casa bills itself as traditional Mexican cuisine, but there is nothing “traditional” about it from my experiences.  This is simply great, innovative, nuevo Mexican fare at its finest.

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The freshly made tostada chips arrived with a very unique salsa.  What made this salsa different is that it appeared to have been a cooked salsa thickened with something akin to corn starch.  Very, very tasty, and an excellent harbinger of what to expect.

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Ursula opted for the three-encilada plate, which came with an excellent side of both rice and frijoles (refried beans).  The sauces used on the steak (green), chicken (cream-based), and cheese (red) enchiladas were expertly crafted, with Ursula’s favorite easily being the chicken.  Beyond the sauces, the enchilada tortillas had a nice, not-too-soft texture and the fillings were done very well.

Mi Casa — Chips, Salsa, and Enchiladas with Beans and Rice

Mi Casa — Chips, Salsa, and Enchiladas with Beans and Rice

It seems that every U.S. area along the Mexican border has its regional favorite “Mexican” dish, and in Southern Arizona that would be a crispy fried burrito called the chimichanga.  When in Arizona . . . well, this was my choice.  As I couldn’t decide which sauce to put on my steak chimichanga, I opted for both (and was very glad I did).  Both sauces were, again, excellent.  If there was but even one complaint, it would be that the flour tortilla was a tad thick for the filling, thus slightly overpowering the steak.  Had I to do it all over again (and I definitely will at some point in the future), I’d stick with the enchiladas.  Nevertheless, the chimichanga was very tasty and it is worth a try.

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In researching where we would eat during our overnight stay in Benson before the cavern tours, one item that kept getting rave reviews at Mi Casa was the carrot cake with rum sauce.  We opted to split a piece.  Yes, it was good, but it wasn’t worth the hype other reviewers kept heaping upon it.  It’s definitely a unique take on carrot cake, but the cake itself was rather uninspired and very reminiscent of a spice cake mix.  The rum sauce, however, was very tasty.

Mi Casa — Carrot Cake

Mi Casa — Carrot Cake

So, how good was Mi Casa?  Had they been open on Saturdays, we would have seriously considered reversing course and going back for another meal before heading once again south on our tour of Southeastern Arizona (more on this tour next week).

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