Tag Archives: restaurant review

March 8, 2013 · 5:35 am

A Return to la Posta de Mesilla


I know.  I’ve covered this establishment before.  Can’t help it.  It’s just that good, and it deserves another mention.  My previous review can be found at this link:  La Posta de Mesilla

As you know from the previous two blogs this week, spring returned to El Paso ever so briefly this past week.  Spring means roadster, and roadster frequently means visiting the sights within a few hours’ drive of our home.  One such place, loaded with both photographic and culinary delights, is Mesilla, New Mexico.  Or, to the locals around here, “Old Mesilla,” which refers mostly to the area in the immediate vicinity of the charming town square and it’s many buildings dating back to the 1800s, the Wild West, and Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett.  For Mexican cuisine with a New Mexican touch, the place to go here is la Posta de Mesilla.

First, there’s that charming building with its numerous, intimate dining areas:

The 1800s adobe peeking through from beneath viga ceiling

The 1800s adobe peeking through from beneath viga ceiling

Old-style wooden doors throughout

Old-style wooden doors throughout

And then there’s the food.  We were greeted with the customary tostada chips and salsa — in this case a nice, spicy, tomato-based concoction that also went well atop the later main course offerings.  We also shared some guacamole and a bowl of queso with green chili strips.  The queso chili was fresh and meaty (as is usually the case at any restaurant this close to New Mexico’s chile growing region), and the guacamole was both adequately ripe and flavorful.

Tostada Chips, Salsa (spicy), Corn Tortillas, and other appetizers on display

Tostada Chips, Salsa (spicy), Corn Tortillas, and other appetizers on display

Guacamole in the foreground; Chili con Queso with green chili strips behind

Guacamole in the foreground; Chili con Queso with green chili strips behind

Ursula opted for a chimichanga — a type of deep-fried burrito — stuffed with shredded beef and served with sides of Mexican rice and frijoles (refried beans).  She of course doused this chimichanga under a blanket of that aforementioned salsa.  Alas, she was a bit disappointed in that the flour tortilla was a bit thick and chewy and overpowered the beef filling.

Ursula's Chimichanga with Mexican Rice and Frijoles (refried beans)

Ursula’s Chimichanga with Mexican Rice and Frijoles (refried beans)

I had one of the combination plates.  In addition to the usual rice and beans, this one came with a wonderful crispy ground beef taco, a nice cheese enchilada buried beneath a marvelous blanket of chili meat sauce, and a rather disappointing chile rellano (see my recipe at this link: Get Stuffed on Chile Rellanos).  I call the rellano disappointing because it had obviously been prepared in advance and reheated.  As a result, the chile had dehydrated and lost its thick, meaty texture, and the egg batter coating was far from either fluffy or crispy.  Next time I’ll probably stick with a taco platter, although the enchilada with green chili meat sauce was also a winner.

Doug's Cheese Enchilada under a Chile Meat Sauce, Crispy Beef Taco, Chili Rellano, Rice and Beans

Doug’s Cheese Enchilada under a Chile Meat Sauce, Crispy Beef Taco, Chili Rellano, Rice and Beans

Dessert consisted of two items:  A sopapilla served with warmed honey and an apricot empanada accompanied by a scoop of ice cream.  The empanada was a huge hit.  Alas, we were both too stuffed to try the nice looking sopapilla that was included with the meal.

Sopapilla with honey on the left; Apricot Empanada a la Mode to the right

Sopapilla with honey on the left; Apricot Empanada a la Mode to the right

Before we left I managed to snag a few more shots of platters preparing to arrive at nearby tables.  These photographs should give you a good idea what else la Posta has in store for you:

Going to the next table: Beef and Chicken Fajitas in the

Going to the next table: Beef and Chicken Fajitas in the foreground; shrimp fajitas beyond

Another table gets Ground Sirloin with Queso and Green Chili, Burrito (the original "wrap"), and a Taco Plate

Another table gets Ground Sirloin with Queso and Green Chili, Burrito (the original “wrap”), and a Taco Plate

Considering how busy this place gets, especially after Sunday service at the nearby Basilica of San Albino, the service almost never disappoints.  This day was no exception.  The wait staff were prompt, efficient, friendly, and helpful with knowledgeable suggestions.

If you’re anywhere within 100 miles of this south-central New Mexico destination, la Posta is definitely worth the detour.  Give it a try, then grab your camera and start enjoying the sights around town.

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January 30, 2013 · 5:35 am

Stalking the Elusive Oyster Po-Boy in New Orleans


As you’ll recall from last week, there is no truth to the old wives’ tale that it’s impossible to get a bad meal in New Orleans.  I know because I found one.  Two, if you include Ursula’s disappointing entrée.

Sometimes the Joke's on You

Sometimes the Joke’s on You

So, what do you do the next day?  You’re in New Orleans for only a few more hours, lunch is approaching, and you have a ship to catch.  Well, you could wait until boarding and then eat meals for which you’ve already paid but, hey, this is New Orleans!  I’m not going to let one bad meal ruin it for me.  This called for extraordinary measures, which means we would have to resort to the tried-and-true.

We checked out of our room at the Hilton Riverwalk, left our bags in the secure hands of the bellhop station, and hiked to our favorite place for oyster po-boys.  That would be Johnny’s Po-Boy on St. Louis Street, ironically just a short walk from the previous evening’s disappointing Maspero’s.

Johnny's Po-Boy . . . Sans Oysters

Johnny’s Po-Boy . . . Sans Oysters

Johnny’s is a rather unique establishment.  Cash only.  Few tables.  Long lines.  Surly staff.  Wondrous po-boys, especially the fried oyster one.  We dutifully got into the line that extended beyond the entry and wound up the block and waited our turn.  Entering Johnny’s I noticed, gasp, a table!  With two chairs!  I sent Ursula scampering to claim it as I continued to thread my way through the throngs up to the counter.  New Orleans cuisine was now minutes from redeeming itself.

But, then, disaster struck.

“Whadaya want?” asked one of the aforementioned surly staff.

“Oyster po-boys.  Two.  One easy on the —”

“Ain’t got no oysters.  Out.  Whadaya want?”

Now, let me get this straight.  Here I am, standing in a restaurant (of sorts; I think) famous for its oyster po-boys.  I’ve just waited the better part of forty-five frappin’ minutes.  It’s just coming up on noon, meaning you’ve only been open a little over three hours.  And you’re out of oysters?  Are you flippin’ kiddin’ me?  I supposed I could have composed myself and ordered the fried shrimp po-boy, but that’s not why I came there and battled lines and crowds.  I collected Ursula and we departed.  Ship cuisine was starting to look pretty good right about now, and that’s sad considering where we were.

Then serendipity stepped into our lives.  We were forlornly discussing our ever diminishing options when we happened upon a restaurant that looked inviting, intriguing, and, according to the street-posted menu, in possession of po-boys.  Oyster po-boys.  Fried oyster po-boys.  And how can you fail in New Orleans with a name like, “Huck Finn’s?”  Huck Finn’s is located at 135 Decatur, and you’ll soon see why I can enthusiastically endorse this establishment.

Huck Finn's — don't let the nondescript exterior fool you

Huck Finn’s — don’t let the nondescript exterior fool you

This place had rooms.  This place took credit cards.  This place had friendly, smiling, helpful wait staff.  This place had myriad tables and a plethora of comfortable chairs.  This place had ambiance.

Huck Finn's Nicely Appointed Dining Areas

Huck Finn’s Nicely Appointed Dining Areas

But, once bitten, twice shy.

“Do you have oysters for po-boys?” Ursula asked the hostess.

“Of course,” came the reply, and off we went.

The price was a couple bucks more than Johnny’s, but at Johnny’s the fries are extra so it works out to about the same.  So, how’s the taste?

If I closed my eyes, pretended I was in an uncomfortable folding chair seated at a dirty table, and imagined I was shoulder to shoulder with other hungry patrons, I’d swear I was eating an oyster po-boy from Johnny’s.  Yes, it’s that good.  Better, even, in that the remoulade sauce on the side was exquisite.

Huck Finn's Oyster Po-Boy with Remoulade Sauce

Huck Finn’s Oyster Po-Boy with Remoulade Sauce

The po-boys certainly hit the spot, and we really weren’t hungry, but we were so impressed that we opted for the blackened alligator.  Tasty.  Nicely blackened.  A bit on the chewy side, indicative of insufficient tenderization, but other than that very passable.  I was also pleased at how close my own homemade blackening seasoning came to the taste of the seasoning used in a New Orleans eatery — no difference as far as I could tell.  I love it when I get something like that right the first time.  Remind me sometime and perhaps I’ll give you the exact ingredients and quantities to make your own for a fraction of the cost of a store-bought name brand.

Huck Finn's Blackened Alligator

Huck Finn’s Blackened Alligator

Our tastes for good New Orleans cuisine finally sated, we made our way back to collect our bags and rolled them over to the ship.  That evening we were treated to a nice sunset, and in the opposite direction of the setting sun we witnessed pink cotton candy clouds above the Mississippi River.

NCL NOrwegian Star

NCL NOrwegian Star

The Norwegian Star in Port

The Norwegian Star in Port

New Orleans Sunset

New Orleans Sunset

Pink Cotton Candy Clouds over the Mississippi

Pink Cotton Candy Clouds over the Mississippi

We were finally on our way.

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January 4, 2013 · 5:35 am

Koze Teppan Grill


Wednesday was dedicated to a review of the local example of a regional Japanese steakhouse and sushi bar chain — Hayashi.  Monday you read the disappointing impetus of that review, the rather unfortunate treatment of a once-in-a-lifetime retirement party for an air traffic controller who had dedicated twenty-two years of his professional life to the service of this nation’s National Airspace System.  Today I’m going to present to fans of Japanese-style steakhouses the best example I’ve found here in El Paso.

It’s called the Koze Teppan Grill, and like Hayashi, it doesn’t just stop at the normal Japanese steakhouse fare of grilled beef, chicken, and seafood; it also excels in other things Japanese.  Koze Teppan Grill is located at 6127 N. Mesa, Suite B, sharing a parking lot with a Pizza Hut, a Blockbuster Video, the Sin Tini bar, and Trevly Ice Cream and Frozen Yogurt shop.  That’s right — one stop shopping for dinner, dessert, and after-dinner drinks all in one parking lot.

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While it’s billed as a teppan grill, Koze does in fact also makes an exceptional sushi, albeit not cheaply.  One of my personal favorites, and oddly enough one of the most affordable examples (although technically not a true sushi), is Koze’s tempura roll.  Unlike other tempura rolls, in which tempura-style shrimp is the basis of the roll, Koze instead rolls around vegetable tempura and places the roll beneath a bed of additional vegetable tempura.  Unfortunately, they then try to ruin it by topping the roll with an unnecessarily heavy and distracting mayonnaise-based sauce.  Do yourself a favor and tell the waiter to forgo the sauce when you order this for your appetizer in preparation for the teppan experience.

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Tempura Roll

All teppan entrées include a soup and salad.  The soup goes beyond the usual tasteless miso, giving the patron something much more substantial on the tongue.  The salad may be pedestrian by Japanese steakhouse standards, but tell the truth — has that robust ginger-based dressing ever really disappointed?  It won’t here, either.

Soup and Salad

Soup and Salad

The table chefs here are quite talented — much more so than our experience at Hayashi, in fact.  Here you’re in for quite a show during the preparation of the meal.  And let’s face it — the show is almost half the fun at going to these type restaurants.  Otherwise, why go?  This stuff is easily made at home at a fraction of the cost.

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A Flaming Onion Volcano

The Japanese fried rice here is expertly prepared, excellently seasoned, and exceptionally presented . . . and Koze neither charges extra nor skimps on the serving.

Japanese Fried Rice

Japanese Fried Rice

The Accompanying vegetables are perfectly grilled — exploding with garden-fresh taste and retaining a freshly picked crunchiness with just a hint of carmelization and without the taste or texture of being raw.

Fresh Vegetables . . .

Fresh Vegetables . . .

. . . Prepared Perfectly

. . . Prepared Perfectly

The meat cuts do not disappoint.  Filet Mignon is as tender as one would expect of such a cut, and the steak is flavorful without a distracting chewiness sometimes associated with a lesser cut.  I did not try the chicken, but our table mates expressed their approval.  As for the seafood, both the shrimp and the scallops were of excellent quality and well-prepared without a hint of the tendency to overcook that seems common to such establishments.

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From Top — Scallops, Shirmp, Filet Mignon, Steak, and Chicken

Put that all together in a nice, tableside presentation and this is what you can expect (minus some of the steak, which didn’t survive being photographed):

The Final Presentation

The Final Presentation

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