Tag Archives: restaurant review

For Menudo Fans


Ooops.  Wrong “menudo.”  I meant this stuff:

A Bowl of Red

A Bowl of Red

Menudo is one of El Paso’s best kept secrets.  And it’s either really, really good or dismally bad.  There is seldom an in-between with this stuff.  El Paso’s La Malinche serves a very, very good bowl of menudo.

La Malinche

La Malinche

Traditionally, menudo is served on weekends for breakfast, as it purportedly has recuperative powers post-hangover.  I’ve never eaten it for that reason, but both Ursula and I love a good, steaming bowl of it . . . especially on a cold winter morning.  Alas, it’s June and in the triple-digits of late, but on Fathers Day we went anyway.

So, how long have we been going to La Malinche for menudo?  Here’s an indication.  See this woman?

Sandra

Sandra

That’s Sandra.  She’s been serving us for years, and she doesn’t even bother to ask us anymore what we want.  She just motions us to one of the tables in her section; plops down a pitcher of tea and glasses with ice; fetches the onion, green lemon slices, Mexican oregano and crushed chili pepper; and then weaves through the hungry throngs to deliver to us some of the best menudo you will ever eat.

Tea, "Limón," and Onion

Tea, “Limón,” and Onion

Menudo, Bread, Oregano, and Crushed Peppers

Menudo, Bread, Oregano, and Crushed Peppers

Menudo is a chili-based broth containing posole (Mexican hominy) and chunks of beef tripe (the “menudo” in menudo) that have been simmered for hours until they are marvelously tender.  This is not to be confused is a bowl of “posole,” which substitutes pork for tripe and is not nearly as flavorful.

As with most of the really good Mexican restaurants, La Malinche is a real hole-in-the-wall lacking in both charm and ambiance.  You come here for the food, not the decor.

La Malinche

La Malinche

 But that’s okay.  That’s what really good and authentic Mexican cuisine is all about, and it’s part of the dining experience.

Now, how to properly dress a bowl of menudo:  Here locally menudo is served with bread (either toasted with butter or in whole rolls), green lemon wedges, chopped yellow onion, “Mexican oregano” (course, whole buds of the lippia graveolens plant) , and crushed red chili.  We prefer the whole bread to the toasted so that it can be broken into pieces and floated into the broth to soak it up.  So spoon in some chopped onion, drizzle on some lemon juice, float some of that bread, and sprinkle on some chili pepper and “oregano” (easy on the chili).  As for that “oregano,” we like to rub it vigorously between the palms as we sprinkle it.  As with most herbs, rubbing released both the essence and the flavor.

Do all that and this is what you get:

Menudo Dressed and Ready

Menudo Dressed and Ready

What a great way to wake up to Fathers Day in El Paso, Texas.

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Benson, Arizona, Kartchner Caverns, and a Bonus Restaurant Review


Texas Canyon — An area in Southeastern Arizona not far from the New Mexico stateline:

Less than fifty miles southeast of Tucson, Arizona, is a small town called Benson.  Benson isn’t really famous for much.  You may even rightly wonder why Ursula and I made the trip out to Benson over this year’s Easter Weekend.  Benson was founded in 1880 as a stop along the Southern Pacific Railroad, and not much has happened there since.  At least, not much had happened there until the discovery of Kartchner Caverns some nine miles to the south (just over 13 driving miles), and the recent conversion of those caverns into an Arizona State Park.  Now, Benson acts as the overnight stay for those going through Kartchner Caverns.

There are two tours available at Kartchner Caverns.  The Rotunda/Throne Room tour is available nearly year round.  The Big Room is open from mid-October until mid-April.  This year the Big Room tour ceases on April 15 for the annual migration of around 1,000 female Myotis velifer bats, which use this portion of the caverns as a nursery in which to deliver and raise their young.  Both tours are easy to make and require little in the way of physical exertion.  Indeed, the tours are both wheelchair accessible.

I took some fun shots on the approach to Kartchner, but that’s all I could do.  Park regulations do not allow any photographic equipment (not even cell phones or other electronic devices containing cameras) into the cavern environment.  This is rather disappointing when compared to the more lenient rules in Carlsbad Caverns.  And, as I’ve shown in a previous blog on photographing Carlsbad Caverns, knowledgeable and educated photographers truly can live in harmony with delicate cave environments.

Here are my photos of the approach to Kartchner and the surrounding areas (including some really great desert flora):

And here (something I’m loathe to do) are photographs taken not by me, but made available at the Kartchner Caverns website:

Getting back to Benson for a moment, I simply must review a great little restaurant find we made on the way.  It’s called Mi Casa, and it’s very difficult to locate as it’s small and situated well back from the street on which it’s located (732 W. 4th Street, Benson).  Mi Casa bills itself as traditional Mexican cuisine, but there is nothing “traditional” about it from my experiences.  This is simply great, innovative, nuevo Mexican fare at its finest.

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The freshly made tostada chips arrived with a very unique salsa.  What made this salsa different is that it appeared to have been a cooked salsa thickened with something akin to corn starch.  Very, very tasty, and an excellent harbinger of what to expect.

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Ursula opted for the three-encilada plate, which came with an excellent side of both rice and frijoles (refried beans).  The sauces used on the steak (green), chicken (cream-based), and cheese (red) enchiladas were expertly crafted, with Ursula’s favorite easily being the chicken.  Beyond the sauces, the enchilada tortillas had a nice, not-too-soft texture and the fillings were done very well.

Mi Casa — Chips, Salsa, and Enchiladas with Beans and Rice

Mi Casa — Chips, Salsa, and Enchiladas with Beans and Rice

It seems that every U.S. area along the Mexican border has its regional favorite “Mexican” dish, and in Southern Arizona that would be a crispy fried burrito called the chimichanga.  When in Arizona . . . well, this was my choice.  As I couldn’t decide which sauce to put on my steak chimichanga, I opted for both (and was very glad I did).  Both sauces were, again, excellent.  If there was but even one complaint, it would be that the flour tortilla was a tad thick for the filling, thus slightly overpowering the steak.  Had I to do it all over again (and I definitely will at some point in the future), I’d stick with the enchiladas.  Nevertheless, the chimichanga was very tasty and it is worth a try.

P1030999

In researching where we would eat during our overnight stay in Benson before the cavern tours, one item that kept getting rave reviews at Mi Casa was the carrot cake with rum sauce.  We opted to split a piece.  Yes, it was good, but it wasn’t worth the hype other reviewers kept heaping upon it.  It’s definitely a unique take on carrot cake, but the cake itself was rather uninspired and very reminiscent of a spice cake mix.  The rum sauce, however, was very tasty.

Mi Casa — Carrot Cake

Mi Casa — Carrot Cake

So, how good was Mi Casa?  Had they been open on Saturdays, we would have seriously considered reversing course and going back for another meal before heading once again south on our tour of Southeastern Arizona (more on this tour next week).

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A Return to la Posta de Mesilla


I know.  I’ve covered this establishment before.  Can’t help it.  It’s just that good, and it deserves another mention.  My previous review can be found at this link:  La Posta de Mesilla

As you know from the previous two blogs this week, spring returned to El Paso ever so briefly this past week.  Spring means roadster, and roadster frequently means visiting the sights within a few hours’ drive of our home.  One such place, loaded with both photographic and culinary delights, is Mesilla, New Mexico.  Or, to the locals around here, “Old Mesilla,” which refers mostly to the area in the immediate vicinity of the charming town square and it’s many buildings dating back to the 1800s, the Wild West, and Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett.  For Mexican cuisine with a New Mexican touch, the place to go here is la Posta de Mesilla.

First, there’s that charming building with its numerous, intimate dining areas:

The 1800s adobe peeking through from beneath viga ceiling

The 1800s adobe peeking through from beneath viga ceiling

Old-style wooden doors throughout

Old-style wooden doors throughout

And then there’s the food.  We were greeted with the customary tostada chips and salsa — in this case a nice, spicy, tomato-based concoction that also went well atop the later main course offerings.  We also shared some guacamole and a bowl of queso with green chili strips.  The queso chili was fresh and meaty (as is usually the case at any restaurant this close to New Mexico’s chile growing region), and the guacamole was both adequately ripe and flavorful.

Tostada Chips, Salsa (spicy), Corn Tortillas, and other appetizers on display

Tostada Chips, Salsa (spicy), Corn Tortillas, and other appetizers on display

Guacamole in the foreground; Chili con Queso with green chili strips behind

Guacamole in the foreground; Chili con Queso with green chili strips behind

Ursula opted for a chimichanga — a type of deep-fried burrito — stuffed with shredded beef and served with sides of Mexican rice and frijoles (refried beans).  She of course doused this chimichanga under a blanket of that aforementioned salsa.  Alas, she was a bit disappointed in that the flour tortilla was a bit thick and chewy and overpowered the beef filling.

Ursula's Chimichanga with Mexican Rice and Frijoles (refried beans)

Ursula’s Chimichanga with Mexican Rice and Frijoles (refried beans)

I had one of the combination plates.  In addition to the usual rice and beans, this one came with a wonderful crispy ground beef taco, a nice cheese enchilada buried beneath a marvelous blanket of chili meat sauce, and a rather disappointing chile rellano (see my recipe at this link: Get Stuffed on Chile Rellanos).  I call the rellano disappointing because it had obviously been prepared in advance and reheated.  As a result, the chile had dehydrated and lost its thick, meaty texture, and the egg batter coating was far from either fluffy or crispy.  Next time I’ll probably stick with a taco platter, although the enchilada with green chili meat sauce was also a winner.

Doug's Cheese Enchilada under a Chile Meat Sauce, Crispy Beef Taco, Chili Rellano, Rice and Beans

Doug’s Cheese Enchilada under a Chile Meat Sauce, Crispy Beef Taco, Chili Rellano, Rice and Beans

Dessert consisted of two items:  A sopapilla served with warmed honey and an apricot empanada accompanied by a scoop of ice cream.  The empanada was a huge hit.  Alas, we were both too stuffed to try the nice looking sopapilla that was included with the meal.

Sopapilla with honey on the left; Apricot Empanada a la Mode to the right

Sopapilla with honey on the left; Apricot Empanada a la Mode to the right

Before we left I managed to snag a few more shots of platters preparing to arrive at nearby tables.  These photographs should give you a good idea what else la Posta has in store for you:

Going to the next table: Beef and Chicken Fajitas in the

Going to the next table: Beef and Chicken Fajitas in the foreground; shrimp fajitas beyond

Another table gets Ground Sirloin with Queso and Green Chili, Burrito (the original "wrap"), and a Taco Plate

Another table gets Ground Sirloin with Queso and Green Chili, Burrito (the original “wrap”), and a Taco Plate

Considering how busy this place gets, especially after Sunday service at the nearby Basilica of San Albino, the service almost never disappoints.  This day was no exception.  The wait staff were prompt, efficient, friendly, and helpful with knowledgeable suggestions.

If you’re anywhere within 100 miles of this south-central New Mexico destination, la Posta is definitely worth the detour.  Give it a try, then grab your camera and start enjoying the sights around town.

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