Tag Archives: France

Storming The Beaches—Omaha and Utah


We arrived in Cherbourg, France, the day after Saint-Malo and our day trip to the tidal island of Mont Saint-Michel and the medieval walled city of Dinan.  Cherbourg’s big claim to fame was that it was the first stop after leaving Southampton, England, made by the RMS Titanic.  The RMS Titanic struck an iceberg at 23:40 hours on April 14, and succumbed to the resulting damage by disappearing beneath the icy Atlantic waves some two hours and forty minutes later, breaking apart and heading to the bottom at 02:20 hours on April 15.  The year was 1912—just one week shy of 100 years from when our ship passed over the Titanic’s watery grave at 02:00 hours on the morning of April 8 as we made our way from Bermuda to Saint-Malo.  For more on that tragic day, read this article on the Sinking of the RMS Titanic.

But the RMS Titanic was not our only brush with historical tragedy this trip.  A far worse loss of life occurred on the night of June 5 and throughout the day of June 6, 1944.  The location of this tragedy was along a 62-mile strip of sand and cliffs lining the beaches of Normandy, France.

No trip to Normandy is complete without a pilgrimage to the beaches that took the brunt of the great D-Day Invasion of World War II.  There were five invasion beaches in all stretching over a 62-mile front—Juno (Canadian and United Kingdom Forces), Gold (United Kingdom), Sword (United Kingdom and Free French Forces), Utah (United States) and (most infamously) Omaha (United States).

Omaha Beach was very nearly a disaster with a total  of 3,000 casualties and 1,200 dead—many occurring within just minutes of arrival.  Invasion personnel were pinned down by unexpectedly heavy German resistance even before making it out of the icy waters of the pounding surf.  At one point early into the invasion, General Omar Bradley seriously contemplated evacuating what remained of his devastated forces, and Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery considered diverting elements of V Corp from Gold Beach to assist.  Fortunately, U.S. Forces finally managed to break through the German defenders, eventually linking up with forces from other beaches as well as paratroopers and glider assault forces that hand landed behind enemy lines the night before.

Total casualties of Allied troops that day among the five beaches and the airborne troops who preceded the invasion numbered around 10,000, of which approximately 2,500 were killed.  German forces suffered an estimated 9,000 casualties.  U.S. losses alone were 1,465 killed out of a total of 6,603 casualties.

Over the month following the initial invasion nearly 30,000 Americans lost their lives liberating Normandy.  After the war relatives of the deceased were given the option of having the remains of their kin shipped home or left in the country in which they fell.  In an expression of gratitude for these sacrifices, France ceded to the United States 172.5 acres for the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial.  Today all but one of the 9,387 grave sites contains the remains of a member of the U.S. military who died in World War II.  The exception is one lone combatant from World War I.  That would be Quentin Roosevelt, who was transferred to the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial to lie beside his brother, Brigadier General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr., who led the Utah Beach Invasion and who died of a massive heart attack just thirty-six days later.

Further inland elements of the U.S. Army 82nd Airborne were having their own problems with Mission Boston.   The paratroopers of the 505th Infantry Regiment missed their landing zone and wound up drifting into the town of Sainte-Mère-Église.  In one particularly famous incident that night, Private John Steele‘s parachute became snagged on the town church, leaving him dangling above the ground to witness the carnage as several of his fellow paratroopers were gunned during their descent into the central square.  Private Steele survived by going limp and feigning death.  Eventually, the Germans brought him down and took him prisoner.

As you peruse the photographs below, you will see that Private Steele’s predicament is commemorated even to this day with a mannequin in full combat gear dangling by parachute from the town church.  Take a close look at the church stained glass windows as well.  You’ll see references to the 82nd Airborne and images of paratroopers.

One final location you’ll find pictured below is Pointe du Hoc.  Pointe du Hoc is infamous as one of the more needless tragedies of the D-Day Invasion.  Nearly everything that could go wrong with this operation did go wrong, not least of which was that the mission was to capture large gun emplacements that weren’t there.  Though the concrete casements were still in place, the 155mm canon had been relocated about a mile away.  The photograph overlooking Utah Beach through a slit of concrete was taken from inside the German Command Bunker at Pointe du Hoc.

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Day Trip from Saint-Malo—Dinan


On Monday we took a look at the first destination on our day trip out of Saint-Malo following our transatlantic crossing aboard Holland America’s MS Ryndam.  That first stop was Mont Saint-Michel.  Later that day our Cruise Critic group wound up in the port city of Dinan located along the river Rance.  Dinan’s main attraction however is not the port.  It’s the medieval walls and the enclosed old town situated high above the Rance.  Some of the buildings hiding behind this fortification date back to the 13th Century.

Yeah, there’s a photo opportunity or two awaiting you in Dinan.  Unfortunately, the weather that was our friend earlier that day in Mont Saint-Michel had turned on us by that afternoon.  Skies were gray and intermittent showers dampened our sojourn behind the walls.

Nevertheless, I did manage to capture a few images worthy of display:

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Day Trip from Saint-Malo—Mont-Saint-Michel


Our transatlantic crossing from Bermuda ended eight days after it began, in Saint-Malo, France.  We met up with our Cruise Critic travel group for a day trip that took is first to Mont-Saint-Michel and then later that day to . . . well, that’s the subject of Wednesday’s blog.  As for Mont-Saint-Michel, the name might not be familiar but the images of this small tidal island are iconic.  If you ever make it to the Brittany, you owe yourself a visit to this incredible place of enchantment.  Unfortunately, that may be difficult for a while.  Starting at the end of this month, the one road to this commune will be closed as the final stage in a reconstruction aimed at removing centuries of accumulated silt to make Mont-Saint-Michel a true tidal island once again.

Just how popular is this place?  Here’s an interesting pair of statistics:  Population in 2006—41  Total visitors in 2006—3,000,000+.

A few words of caution for your visit:  It’s a long, high trek to get to the top of the monastery that towers over the residents below.  Wear comfortable shoes.  Be prepared to take breaks along the way.  The least crowded way to make most of the ascent is along the fortress walls rather than through the shops lining the meandering streets.  You’ll also be greeted to some spectacular photographic subjects if you take this route.  Save the cobblestone streets and the associated shopping for the leisurely gait back toward sea level.

Rather than even attempt to give you some fifteen hundred years’ worth of history on Mont-Saint-Michel, here are some links you may find of interest:

Mont-Saint-Michel—Wikipedia Article
Mont-Saint-Michel travel guide—Wikitravel Article
Mont-Saint-Michel—Official Web Site

Picture?  Did you ask if I had pictures?  What do you think?

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