Category Archives: R. Doug Wicker

Fun Food Friday — Dinner in Marrakech at Riad Viva


Riad Viva courtyard — entrance to the restaurant on the right

One of the things I’m just a tad bit wary of is eating in a location in which the tap water is not safe to drink. We once had an unbelievably bad experience the restaurant at a well-known, highly respected American chain hotel back in 1984 in Cairo. The culprit? The salad bar. Why? Because the produce was rinsed in local tap water. Three of the four of us had severe intestinal distress shortly thereafter. As we’d received the same tap water warning for Marrakech, I was a bit reluctant to eat out on the economy. Fortunately, we didn’t have to. Riad Viva supplied us nightly with an ever-changing daily set menu of traditional Moroccan food. We kept going back each and every night. But be forewarned. You must pay in advance, with cash, at least several hours beforehand, and you won’t really know what the courses are until after you are seated.

Riad Viva dining room; the rose petals were a nice touch

Upon entering the dining room our table awaited. The place settings rested upon an elegant tablecloth strewn with fresh rose petals. Here’s Ursula waiting to find out what Moroccan delights would soon arrive:

Ursula (and I) could hardly wait

In Morocco… or at least here… the first course consists mostly of vegetables. These dishes contained zucchini of the left, carrots on the right, and, I believe, a vegetable “meatball” concoction in the middle:

Dinner at Riad Viva — first course

The “stew for two” side dish was delicious. It included prunes, which I don’t usually like, but not so in this case. Unfortunately, I cannot recall the meat:

Dinner at Riad Viva — second course side dish

Also included in the second course was the main dish. Today’s selection was lamb:

Dinner at Riad Viva — second course side dish and lamb main dish

Desert was a nice, healthy choice, as you can see here:

Citrus slices sprinkled with spice

Unfortunately, I neglected to take my camera on the other dinners we enjoyed here, because each night offered up an entirely different selection. Probably my least favorite main was their tangine chicken dish, but even that I would gladly eat again.

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Filed under Photography, R. Doug Wicker, Restaurant Review, travel, vacation, Wine & Food

Marrakech — Making Our Way to Souk Laksour


Jemaa el-Fnaa (a.k.a., Piazza Principale), Marrakech

Ursula’s primary goal this trip was to head over to Jemaa el-Fnaa and the adjacent Souk Laksour, the primary souk (bazaar) in Marrakech. The plaza is about a twelve minute walk from Riad Viva, and closer to twenty when you’re recovering from knee replacement surgery and using a cane, which Ursula was. Along the way, depending upon the route you take, you’ll probably see the 12th century Koutoubia Mosque:

Koutoubia Mosque, Marrakech, Morocco

But even if you don’t walk directly by the Koutoubia Mosque, you’ll still see its minaret in the distance as you look southwest past the horse-drawn carriages lined up along Av. Jemaa el-Fnaa:

Av. Jemaa el-Fnaa

And, yes, those carriages are both colorful and photogenic:

Horse-drawn carriages along Av. Jemaa el-Fnaa

But horses aren’t the only engines you’ll see at work in this area:

A donkey transporting wares to the souk

Lining the northwest perimeter of the plaza are many fruit vendors worthy of your camera’s attention:

Vendors lining up along the Jemaa el-Fnaa plaza

There are not many subjects that can beat fruit vendors for color:

Jemaa el-Fnaa fruit vendor

Especially when the vendor takes so much time and makes so much effort to align his produce in visually interesting patterns:

Jemaa el-Fnaa fruit vendor

As you head into the souk, make sure to look up for the scenery:

Souk Laksour

This week’s Fun Food Friday will be a review of the Riad Viva’s great Moroccan restaurant. On Monday I’ll take you deep into the souk (bazaar). Here’s a sample of what awaits you there:

Souk (bazaar) Laksour

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Arriving at Marrakech — Riad Viva (Hotel)


Follow the signs to Riad Viva

Ursula and I took a side trip on a recent visit to Lisbon. On 8 November 2024 we flew down to Morocco for a three-night stay in Marrakech before returning to Lisbon and hoping a cruise ship back across “The Pond.” We’d both been to Morocco before, and Ursula visited Marrakech back in the late ’80s or early ’90s, but this was a first-time trip for me. So, imagine my surprise when we took a taxi to our hotel, only to be dropped off at the entrance to a nondescript side alleyway that allowed bicycles, scooters, and pedestrian traffic, but no cars, and given vague directions on how to traverse the remaining distance to our hotel.

Rue Saâdiens (left); our alleyway, Derb Sidi Mbarek (right)

It seemed to me a case of, “You can’t get there from here. You have to go elsewhere first.” Four winding turns later, after hauling our luggage some 280 meters/920 feet, we found ourselves standing in a narrow, dusty street alive with playing children and friendly cats. Before us was a door and a call button to summon someone to unlock it and allow us entry. By now I was wondering what Ursula had gotten us into. It turned out that she had gotten us into a very pleasant surprise, for upon our entry we found ourselves standing in a luxurious 5-start hotel that looked to be ½-star at most on the outside.

The open-air courtyard of Riad Viva

As you can see above, the area just past reception is quite the contradiction to the description I gave you of our first, street-side impression. The courtyard came with a comfortable seating area and a tranquility-inducing fountain:

Riad Viva courtyard seating area, where we were served tea
Riad Viva courtyard fountain

Our room was on the first floor. Indeed, it was the first room on the left as you step into the courtyard. Here are photos of the sleeping quarters and the bathroom:

Riad Viva room
Note the high ceilings and bright lighting
Luxurious, spacious shower in a well-appointed bathroom

Riad Viva also has an incredible restaurant that serves traditional Moroccan food with a set menu that changes daily. I’ll be reviewing that little delight in this week’s Fun Food Friday. For now I’ll leave with a taste of Marrakech to whet your appetite for what’s to come this week and next:

12th Century Koutoubia Mosque; built 1158-1195
Jemaa el-Fnaa, a.k.a. Piazza Principale

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Filed under Lodging Review, Photography, R. Doug Wicker, travel, vacation