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Dzibanché — Part 1


A Sign that You have Arrived — Additional Clues Forthcoming

A Sign that You have Arrived — Additional Clues Forthcoming

Dzibanché is a rather recent discovery into the distant Mayan past.  Indeed, many structures are still undergoing excavation, and there are very probably several more still awaiting discovery.

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Getting there is an adventure in itself.  If you’re arriving into Costa Maya by cruise ship, make sure you leave yourself plenty of time for this journey.  Despite assurances that Dzibanché is only about one hour, forty-five minutes from the port, it is in fact much closer to half an hour beyond that.  And, as we know, unless you’re on a cruise-sponsored tour, you’re on your own come sailing time.  One does not want to be waving goodbye from the pier as their ship is steaming off to the next port on the itinerary.  Doing so gives one a real sinking feeling, so to speak.

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The trip is definitely worth the time and expense, however.  For our excursion, Ursula set us up with Native Choice.  Price per person was $65 U.S.D.  Our particular duo were tour guide Enrique and driver Edgar.  You can read Ursula’s impressions of both at this article on Travel Advisor.

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I indicated above that some of the structures here are still undergoing excavation.  As you’ll see in some of these photographs, trees still grow in the soil that partially encases the ruins.  Not all of these will be removed, as some vegetation will be left in place to both control erosion and to protect delicate details.

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You’ll see some of those details on Wednesday, including images carved into stone and paintings on the surface of ancient stucco.

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As for today, we’ll concentrate our views some of the more impressive structures and their surrounding jungle environs.  Once you get past the vegetation, prepare to behold:

Dzibanché 07

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Costa Maya and Into the Yucatán Jungle


Our first port of call out of New Orleans was Costa Maya on the Yucatán Peninsula.  And, true to its name, it lies within ancient Mayan territory.

Costa Maya

Costa Maya

Costa Maya

Costa Maya

 

The first things that strike you here are the magnificent blues and aquas of the clear Caribbean waters.  The pictures below are true to the color.  No increase in color saturation was done in the minimal post processing.

Calming Waters and Thatched Roofs

Calming Waters and Thatched Roofs

Aqua Waters

Aqua Waters

 

Our stay in Costa Maya was to be a short one, however.  We had an appointment elsewhere.  We met with our tour guide and his driver and boarded for a journey that would take us some hundred miles from the NCL Star and a couple of millennia into the deep past.

Costa Maya Lighthouse

Costa Maya Lighthouse

The Road into the Interior of the Yucatán

The Road into the Interior of the Yucatán

 

Here’s a teaser of what’s in store for you next week:

 

Mystery Destination — Can You Guess Where?

Mystery Destination — Can You Guess Where?

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Stalking the Elusive Oyster Po-Boy in New Orleans


As you’ll recall from last week, there is no truth to the old wives’ tale that it’s impossible to get a bad meal in New Orleans.  I know because I found one.  Two, if you include Ursula’s disappointing entrée.

Sometimes the Joke's on You

Sometimes the Joke’s on You

So, what do you do the next day?  You’re in New Orleans for only a few more hours, lunch is approaching, and you have a ship to catch.  Well, you could wait until boarding and then eat meals for which you’ve already paid but, hey, this is New Orleans!  I’m not going to let one bad meal ruin it for me.  This called for extraordinary measures, which means we would have to resort to the tried-and-true.

We checked out of our room at the Hilton Riverwalk, left our bags in the secure hands of the bellhop station, and hiked to our favorite place for oyster po-boys.  That would be Johnny’s Po-Boy on St. Louis Street, ironically just a short walk from the previous evening’s disappointing Maspero’s.

Johnny's Po-Boy . . . Sans Oysters

Johnny’s Po-Boy . . . Sans Oysters

Johnny’s is a rather unique establishment.  Cash only.  Few tables.  Long lines.  Surly staff.  Wondrous po-boys, especially the fried oyster one.  We dutifully got into the line that extended beyond the entry and wound up the block and waited our turn.  Entering Johnny’s I noticed, gasp, a table!  With two chairs!  I sent Ursula scampering to claim it as I continued to thread my way through the throngs up to the counter.  New Orleans cuisine was now minutes from redeeming itself.

But, then, disaster struck.

“Whadaya want?” asked one of the aforementioned surly staff.

“Oyster po-boys.  Two.  One easy on the —”

“Ain’t got no oysters.  Out.  Whadaya want?”

Now, let me get this straight.  Here I am, standing in a restaurant (of sorts; I think) famous for its oyster po-boys.  I’ve just waited the better part of forty-five frappin’ minutes.  It’s just coming up on noon, meaning you’ve only been open a little over three hours.  And you’re out of oysters?  Are you flippin’ kiddin’ me?  I supposed I could have composed myself and ordered the fried shrimp po-boy, but that’s not why I came there and battled lines and crowds.  I collected Ursula and we departed.  Ship cuisine was starting to look pretty good right about now, and that’s sad considering where we were.

Then serendipity stepped into our lives.  We were forlornly discussing our ever diminishing options when we happened upon a restaurant that looked inviting, intriguing, and, according to the street-posted menu, in possession of po-boys.  Oyster po-boys.  Fried oyster po-boys.  And how can you fail in New Orleans with a name like, “Huck Finn’s?”  Huck Finn’s is located at 135 Decatur, and you’ll soon see why I can enthusiastically endorse this establishment.

Huck Finn's — don't let the nondescript exterior fool you

Huck Finn’s — don’t let the nondescript exterior fool you

This place had rooms.  This place took credit cards.  This place had friendly, smiling, helpful wait staff.  This place had myriad tables and a plethora of comfortable chairs.  This place had ambiance.

Huck Finn's Nicely Appointed Dining Areas

Huck Finn’s Nicely Appointed Dining Areas

But, once bitten, twice shy.

“Do you have oysters for po-boys?” Ursula asked the hostess.

“Of course,” came the reply, and off we went.

The price was a couple bucks more than Johnny’s, but at Johnny’s the fries are extra so it works out to about the same.  So, how’s the taste?

If I closed my eyes, pretended I was in an uncomfortable folding chair seated at a dirty table, and imagined I was shoulder to shoulder with other hungry patrons, I’d swear I was eating an oyster po-boy from Johnny’s.  Yes, it’s that good.  Better, even, in that the remoulade sauce on the side was exquisite.

Huck Finn's Oyster Po-Boy with Remoulade Sauce

Huck Finn’s Oyster Po-Boy with Remoulade Sauce

The po-boys certainly hit the spot, and we really weren’t hungry, but we were so impressed that we opted for the blackened alligator.  Tasty.  Nicely blackened.  A bit on the chewy side, indicative of insufficient tenderization, but other than that very passable.  I was also pleased at how close my own homemade blackening seasoning came to the taste of the seasoning used in a New Orleans eatery — no difference as far as I could tell.  I love it when I get something like that right the first time.  Remind me sometime and perhaps I’ll give you the exact ingredients and quantities to make your own for a fraction of the cost of a store-bought name brand.

Huck Finn's Blackened Alligator

Huck Finn’s Blackened Alligator

Our tastes for good New Orleans cuisine finally sated, we made our way back to collect our bags and rolled them over to the ship.  That evening we were treated to a nice sunset, and in the opposite direction of the setting sun we witnessed pink cotton candy clouds above the Mississippi River.

NCL NOrwegian Star

NCL NOrwegian Star

The Norwegian Star in Port

The Norwegian Star in Port

New Orleans Sunset

New Orleans Sunset

Pink Cotton Candy Clouds over the Mississippi

Pink Cotton Candy Clouds over the Mississippi

We were finally on our way.

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