Okay, I admit it—I don’t care for Chardonnay. Oh, sure, I come across a bottle every now and again that manages to impress, but it’s just not one of my favorite varietals. What’s wrong with it? First, it’s oaked and aged. Whites should be neither, and if you have to oak it and age it then there’s something inherently wrong with it. Kind of the opposite of the Gamay grape used in the making of Beaujolais and (shudder) Beaujolais nouveau—a red wine that doesn’t take well to either aging or oaking. Indeed, I can honestly say I’ve never had a bottle of Beaujolais or (worse) Beaujolais nouveau that I could even stomach. It’s quite simply that bad.
But, last time I read figures on wine popularity, Chardonnay ranked number one in the good ol’ U.S. of A. Go figure. I mean, yeah, it pairs well with heartier stuff that you could normally get by pairing with a good Pinot Noir, just as Pinot Noir will oft times work with some things you would normally accompany with a heartier white. Think of Chardonnay, then, if you will, as a bridge between white and red, with Pinot Noir waving to it just on the other side of the border.
So, what’s a wine connoisseur to do when it comes to finding a nice, dry white that pairs well with everything from seafood and chicken all the way to veal and pork? Well, for me, the answer is Sauvignon Blanc, also sometimes referred to as Fumé Blanc. And if you really miss the oak characteristic of Chardonnay (which gives Chardonnay its “buttery” character and silky smooth texture), you can find oaked Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends that may surprise you.
Like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc has its historic roots planted firmly in the soil of France—the Burgundy region for Chardonnay; the Bordeaux region for Sauvignon Blanc. But don’t get caught up in thinking this a French wine, because our Kiwi Cousins from New Zealand have taken this varietal to heights the French never dreamed possible. And the Kiwis have done this while keeping the cost per bottle exceptionally reasonable.
When looking for a good New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, concentrate on the Marlborough appellation. My particular favorite, scoring consistently in the low 90s year after year after year, is the incredibly versatile, readily available, and extraordinarily affordable examples coming out of the Kim Crawford winery. Other fine examples I’ve tried and can recommend come from the wineries of Kato, Matua, and Brancott.
Pairing well with this varietal—goat cheese; creamy cheeses such as Boursin, Camembert, Brie and Gouda; lobster and crab dishes, and various shellfish such as oysters, scallops, and even shrimp, and various seafood-based chowders; fish ranging from red snapper to wild salmon; fatty fish such as tuna, mackerel, and swordfish; lighter flavored fowl such as chicken and Cornish game hen; veal dishes of all strips; pork dishes from oven roasted loin to slow-smoked barbeque and even ham; earthier vegetarian fare using eggplant, various mushrooms, asparagus, and artichoke; tomato-based sauces with pasta; and vegetarian pizzas, especially when loaded with garlic.
Thinking of dessert? Try pairing Sauvignon Blanc with fruit-based deserts—both fresh and baked (pies and tarts). Try lighter cakes and cookies (angel food and sugar cookies), and don’t hesitate to serve it with creamy cheese-based deserts ranging from tiramisu (which uses marscapone cheese) to cheesecakes (especially cheesecakes with fruit-based toppings).
It’s just amazing all the different pairings this particular varietal handles well. Is it any wonder that Sauvignon Blanc has become my go-to wine for so many different courses?
Decisions — Murder in Paradise
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R. Doug Wicker — Author 